All About Italy (USA) - - Editorial - Elis­a­betta Pasca

The 2-star Miche­lin chef Gen­naro Es­pos­ito has a culi­nary ap­proach that cel­e­brates the Mediter­ranean tra­di­tion and the most gen­uine in­gre­di­ents

Ev­ery dish served by the restau­rant at num­ber 6 on Via Ser­a­fina Madre, just a few steps away from the fa­mous cen­tral Pi­azzetta of the small town of Capri, pays trib­ute to the gen­uine Mediter­ranean tra­di­tion of taste. It of­fers its cus­tomers cui­sine made with the heart and soul of this re­gion, by plac­ing a con­stant em­pha­sis on the qual­ity of the ba­sic in­gre­di­ents, just as a mother would do. In fact the name of this ver­i­ta­ble tem­ple ded­i­cated to the gods of the kitchen is sim­ply Mammà. This es­tab­lish­ment was born from the great pas­sion of the 2-star Miche­lin chef Gen­naro Es­pos­ito, who is a mod­ern-day priest of ex­quis­ite fla­vors and gas­tro­nomic know-how. “It is a trib­ute to my mother – ex­plains Es­pos­ito – be­cause from her I learned my love for cook­ing and for ev­ery in­gre­di­ent. Mammà there­fore stands for con­tem­po­rary Mediter­ranean cui­sine, but with­out for­get­ting the clas­sics of the lo­cal tra­di­tion of Capri. It is based on the ex­tra­or­di­nary qual­ity of the raw in­gre­di­ents. My sup­pli­ers are the fish­er­men of Capri and the farm­ers on the hills of Anacapri. My dishes range from the risotto alla pesca­tora (seafood risotto) to parmi­giana di pesce bandiera (belt­fish in bat­ter with egg­plants) My right-hand man is Sal­va­tore La Ra­gione. When you cook with real sin­cer­ity and re­spect it is fun to do. And some­times you can even be awarded a Miche­lin star”. The culi­nary con­cept that Es­pos­ito has elab­o­rated for Mammà has made him and his restau­rant fa­mous in Italy and all around the world. This chef from the Cam­pa­nia re­gion has mas­tered the most con­tem­po­rary gas­tro­nomic trends, while al­ways stick­ing closely to the guide­lines of Mediter­ranean cui­sine and never for­get­ting or ne­glect­ing the great tra­di­tional dishes that are typ­i­cal of Capri. Sal­va­tore La Ra­gione, the long-standing sous-chef de cui­sine of the restau­rant, has al­ways worked along­side Es­pos­ito, and he ex­pertly pre­sides over the kitchen, to­gether with a team of top-notch pro­fes­sion­als. The ap­pear­ance and decor of the restau­rant has re­cently undergone a com­plete restyling, which is fully con­sis­tent with the ap­proach to cui­sine. “There is a kind of os­mo­sis be­tween the over­all style and the gas­tro­nomic con­cept” says Es­pos­ito, re­fer­ring to the am­biance and fur­nish­ings, which are based on soft shades of white and beige, with del­i­cate hues that are rem­i­nis­cent of the un­for­get­table deep blue of the sea at Capri.

Not far from the lovely Pi­azzetta of Capri Gen­naro Es­pos­ito’s restau­rant, with a charm­ing ter­race that is a priv­i­leged van­tage point from which to ad­mire the coast­line of the Gulf of Naples and the head­land of Sor­rento, of­fers gourmets a safe haven and har­bor where they will re­ceive all the spe­cial care and at­ten­tion that only a mother can pro­vide from her lov­ing heart.

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