TASTE & FLAVOURS

All About Italy (USA) - - Editorial - Marco Ber­tollini

Gi­a­como Bulleri was born in Col­lodi, sur­rounded by the Tus­can coun­try­side, in 1925, but only dur­ing the war, in Turin, he be­gan to learn how to cook in a restau­rant kitchen. In 1956, he ar­rived in Mi­lan and only two years later he opened the his­toric Trat­to­ria da Gi­a­como in Via Donizzetti, a sim­ple trat­to­ria serv­ing the typ­i­cal Tus­can dishes of his child­hood, like ri­bolitta, ac­qua­cotta and pappa al po­modoro. Lo­cated near the court­houses and a con­ser­va­tory, it at­tracted a lunchtime clien­tele of lawyers, mu­si­cians and ti­tans of the Ital­ian in­dus­try. The restau­rant was also near the stu­dio and home of Renzo Mon­gia­rdino, revered ar­chi­tect, who had lunch there ev­ery sin­gle day. When, in 1989, Bulleri was forced to move be­cause the build­ing that housed the restau­rant was sold, Mon­gia­rdino pro­posed to Bulleri that if he stayed in the neigh­bor­hood, he would de­sign the space for free. The restau­rant that Mon­gia­rdino made for Bulleri turned out to be a place in which el­e­ments of the past and present har­mo­niously in­ter­twine to project the at­mos­phere of trat­to­ria where noth­ing feels dated, but time has stopped in the early 1900s. Dur­ing the years Gi­a­como Bulleri’s re­ceived so much ap­pre­ci­a­tion that his brand has steadily in­creased its range, and, on top of a trio of restau­rants, he opened a cafe, a pastry shop, a tobacco shop and a car­ry­out lunch spot. In each one of these lo­ca­tions the trade­mark time­less at­mos­phere has been uniquely rein­ter­preted, not only by Renzo Mon­gia­rdino, but also by his dis­ci­ples Roberto Pere­galli and Laura Sar­tori Ri­mini.

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