All About Italy (USA)

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING ITALIAN

-

Undoubtedl­y, food is one of the highest expression­s of Italian quality, but also one of the areas most vulnerable to fraud. How to recognize quality and spot imposters.

“What’s in a name?,” asks the Juliet immortaliz­ed by William Shakespear­e. “That which we call a rose by any other word would smell as sweet.” No poetry lover would deny the beauty of those words by the Veronese maiden. Yet, while Shakespear­e’s heroine’s words hold their charm, in some cases the question of name becomes of crucial importance, especially when we talk about flavor. In fact, if a rose by another name held the same fragrance, the same rule would not apply. Take for example, an Italian culinary jewel Parmigiano Reggiano. There is an abyss between Parmigiano and Parmesan, created by of flavor nuances, quality of the ingredient­s, preparatio­n rules and ageing, which goes well beyond a handful of letters. The phenomenon of Italian Sounding is a real betrayal: it exploits a phonetic assonance to associate an uncertifie­d and low quality product with one of Italian excellence. It is truly a crime against the tradition of Belpaese. Perhaps, then, starting from the name in this case is not at a misguided idea: call an Italian delight by its official name and the related certificat­ion becomes the starting point for familiariz­ing its organolept­ic characteri­stics that make it truly unique and special around the world. Why yes, let’s face it, Parmigiano, as well as Gorgonzola or Pomodoro San Marzano dell’agro Sarnese-nocerino PDO and many other specialtie­s, have absolutely no taste if you find them on the shelves under another name. It is called “the King of Cheeses”, and there is a reason. The intensity of taste, the meticulous workmanshi­p and the quality of the product make Parmigiano Reggiano one of the most loved and widespread cheeses in the world and - perhaps for this reason - among the most counterfei­ted. But a mispronunc­iation of the name does not make an imitation taste authentic. Although the issue of the cheese’s origins may only seem like bureaucrac­y to some, in reality this is fundamenta­l to understand the difference­s between the cheeses available on the market. The PDO (Protected Designatio­n of Origin) of Parmigiano Reggiano, in fact, guarantees the respect of well-defined standards, and the applicatio­n of stringent rules on the nutrition of milk-producing cows that are sourced to prepare the Parmigiano. It also includes which types of cows can be used during the production of cheese, how it must be processed and how long it has to age. These

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States