The dis­creet charm of com­bi­na­tion

For his 18/19 men’s col­lec­tion, fash­ion de­signer Brunello Cucinelli chooses to em­pha­size a ca­sual chic of high-end Ital­ian tai­lor­ing

All About Italy (USA) - - All About Italy | Male Glamor - Artemisia Ranni

One of the masters of Ital­ian high-end tai­lor­ing, Brunello Cucinelli brings the skill­ful art of mix­ing ca­sual style and flaw­less chic to the top­most lev­els of grace and beauty. The best qual­ity ma­te­ri­als are used to make his gar­ments. The win­ning for­mula in the col­lec­tion cre­ates a look per­fectly bal­anc­ing the seem­ingly con­flict­ing de­signs. Re­call­ing mil­i­tary uni­forms of the past, the gray-scale Scot­tish tar­tan duster, with a dou­ble row of golden cabo­chon but­tons, and a wa­ter­proof fabric waist­coat is com­bined with vin­tage jeans, and sturdy boots that re­sem­ble those of the moun­tain ad­ven­turer. The out­fit be­comes a fun game of com­bi­na­tions that help men feel per­fectly at ease in every mo­ment of the day. The re­sult­ing mix and match is an in­no­va­tive point of view which sur­prises with­out un­nec­es­sary ex­cesses.

The metic­u­lous and rig­or­ously crafted work­man­ship of Brunello Cucinelli’s de­signer creations are the added value that gives each de­tail of the look a jolt of per­son­al­ity, style and evoca­tive vis­ual power. The over­lap­ping el­e­ments, dark brown lace-up dress shoes with sturdy black souled plat­forms paired with a cash­mere turtle­neck sweater or a sin­gle-breasted vest and skinny an­kle pants. And the two out­er­wear items, white jacket and Scot­tish coat, are never re­dun­dant but spon­ta­neously com­mu­ni­cate a feel­ing of light­ness and ease, to be worn in com­plete free­dom, with­out con­straints of any kind. The color palette ex­plores neu­tral shades that never go un­no­ticed: beige, white, an­thracite gray. Th­ese shades to­gether with mars brown cre­ate an al­most im­per­cep­ti­ble move­ment that em­pha­sizes and el­e­vates the body in re­spect to the sur­round­ing en­vi­ron­ment. The com­bi­na­tion is a re­fined art that not ev­ery­one is able to master. Cucinelli’s new men’s col­lec­tion is able to mix ma­te­ri­als, col­ors and pat­terns with­out ever re­sem­bling most ev­ery­day wear. The con­cept of beauty is de­liv­ered in ex­per­i­men­tal for­mu­las, yet it is im­me­di­ately des­tined to be­come a clas­sic and a trend. So, with­out feel­ing awk­ward, the rust-col­ored cor­duroy blazer goes well with the shirt, jeans and pin­striped dou­ble­breasted waist­coat. The frayed jeans out­fit is com­bined with the glam­orous de­tail of a thin suede belt and vin­tage buckle. The ex­clu­siv­ity of haute cou­ture en­no­bles every oc­ca­sion. The bal­anced shapes, col­ors, weight of cloth and ex­treme at­ten­tion to de­tail make up the ma­jes­tic pic­ture of el­e­gance that does not in­tim­i­date but rather in­fuse warmth and safety to the wearer which also is re­flected in the eyes of the on­looker.

The ‘18/’19 win­ter sea­son col­lec­tion is un­doubt­edly “Ca­sual Sar­to­rial El­e­gance”. It ex­plores a palette of col­ors that moves from neu­tral tones to bolder color blocks. The fabric se­lec­tion is a series of un­usual and unique ar­ti­sanal weaves. The tailored com­bi­na­tions fo­cus around the shoul­ders. This in­stantly ex­alts the male physique. Fluid lines on one side and the geo­met­ric def­i­ni­tion of the cuts on the other con­trib­ute to cre­ate jack­ets with a “smooth” fit. Soft and en­velop­ing drapes em­brace the body with­out weigh­ing it down or mak­ing it look clumsy. The de­sign stu­dio also in­flu­enced by th­ese com­bi­na­tions de­velop new in­no­va­tive and sur­pris­ing knitwear pat­terns. Col­ors charged with en­ergy such as orange, red and yel­low, along with more re­lax­ing col­ors like to­bacco and tur­tle­dove, are com­bined to cre­ate stripes, di­a­monds and two-tone de­tails. True style lovers are guar­an­teed a lively out­fit. So, com­bine a finely crafted sweater with a richly col­ored cor­duroy jacket. Add a dark brown padded leather jacket, with con­trast­ing lapels, and cre­ate an im­pact­ful ur­ban look that de­fines the modern man. Brunello Cucinelli con­tin­ues to bring his com­pany for­ward through cre­ative in­spi­ra­tion that main­tains the tra­di­tions of Ital­ian tai­lor­ing at the high­est lev­els, with­out scorn­ing the in­flu­ences and ideas of modern day.

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