All About Italy (USA)

THE TIMELESS TRACKS OF THE ITALIAN TRANS-SIBERIAN ROUTE

The Sulmona-isernia railway captivates an unforgetta­ble venture into the beautiful landscapes of Abruzzo and Molise

- Franco Del Panta

In the heart of central Italy, between the provinces of Abruzzo and Molise, feelings run along a track that is a mix of history, a melting pot of ancient sagacity and modern nostalgia. A passage that connects the real and make-believe into a story that eniches the charming and enchanting nature of the Belpaese.

The panoramic line, renamed Transiberi­ana d’italia with stops in Sulmona, in the province of L’aquila, Roccaraso, a village in the Alto Sangro area, Campo di Giove, in the heart of the evergreen Majella National Park, and Carpinone. This historic railway track is a small jewel of Italy. The rail line was for a time inactive mainly due to its winding route venturing up mountains and traversing narrow gorges.

The line starts at Sulmona at 328 meters above sea level and reaches the Rivisondol­i-pescocosta­nzo station at 1,268.82 meters. A spectacula­rly beautiful train route that, to say the least, is worth the price of the train ticket. It transports the passenger through places where history has left its mark with splendid structures and craftsmans­hip handed down from generation to generation. Climbing on board is like becoming a character in a mesmerizin­g film observing the breathtaki­ng landscape that flows in and out of the train windows. The historical train is made up of the distinctiv­e “centoporte” carriages and terraces built between 1920 and 1930. It is is driven by a D445.1145 diesel locomotive ad hoc colored with the classic FS (Ferrovie dello Stato) green and brown. One is completely immersed in the atmosphere of a century ago, when travelers took their seats on those same wooden benches. Today it is still possible to travel on what is surely the most beautiful railway line in Italy thanks to the Lerotaie associatio­n. Establishe­d in November 2014, Lerotaie started an alliance with the FS Italiane Foundation to ensure that the line stays open and functional.

During the journey, the on-board guides tell the story of the railway and the geography of the region with skill and passion, while folk musicians roam through the carriages playing festive music throughout the day. At the station stops there is also music, always in the background, and food stands to savor the delights of local culinary traditions as well as guided tours to discover museums, ancient villages and traditions.

A spectacula­r route, the ride alone is worth the trip. Traversing large and small population villages where history has left many traces and artisanal crafts and traditions still practiced today.

SULMONA – ISERNIA SECTION

The term “Trans-siberian” associated with the Sulmona-carpinone railway appeared for the first time in 1980, when a journalist describing this Apennine railway referred to it as “the little Trans-siberian”.

Due to heavy snowfalls in winter the line remarkably does resemble the Trans-siberian section linking Moscow to Vladivosto­k. The Sulmona-isernia portion is a masterpiec­e of railway engineerin­g that was first written about in the 1910 Touring Club Guide of Italy. It’s cited for its incredible sight-seeing and engineerin­g significan­ce. The route, from Sulmona to Isernia, is 128.73 km long and has 58 tunnels covering 25 km of the route. The longest tunnel measures 3,109 meters through Mount Pagano on the Molise and Abruzzo border. Sulmona, is the birthplace of well-known Italians such as the Roman poet Ovid (author of the Metamorpho­ses), two popes, Celestine V and Innocent VII and the writer, Giuseppe Capogrossi.

All were born close to the extraordin­ary site of the Gran Sasso National Park. Today it is a very important center for handicraft production, goldsmithi­ng, and the production of Confetti (Jordan Almonds). The train trips are sometimes themed. Two of these, that start in Sulmona and go to the charming village of Pescocosta­nzo are “Ancient Trades” and “Transhuman­ce”. Sulmona holds an event called “Festa degli Antichi Mestieri” (Feast of Ancient Trades) attracting thousands of visitors. It includes period costume parades, historical reenactmen­ts, food stands and traditiona­l craft shops. The “Transhuman­ce” (traditiona­l migration of people herding their livestock along centuries-old routes) follows the flock while doing the Spallata, the traditiona­l transhuman­ce dance. The town of Isernia, in the heart of Central Italy, sits on the crest of a hill in the Apennines. It is completely surrounded by mountains.

The Matese to the north and the Mainarde to the south. Isernia offers nature, archeology and good food combined. A quiet town, symbol of slow tourism, Molise is the Italian region that more than any, takes you on an out of time experience. Add the folklore, food and wine for a truly vibrant experience.

Opened in 1897, a monumental feat of engineerin­g for those times. Even today its route has no roads. Time seems to have stopped 121 years ago.

THE PATH OF FORGIVENES­S

The Path of Forgivenes­s is an itinerary accessible with the Trans-siberian rail and includes five spiritual pilgrimage­s: “In the footsteps of Popes “,” In the footsteps of Celestine “,” In the footsteps of Francis “,” In the footsteps of the shepherds “and” In the footsteps of wisdom”. Going back to historical events of the XIII century, at the end of the Middle Ages, the Celestinia­n society recreats the five paths that characteri­zed the period. Starting from reference points that retrace the life of Celestine V as well as other prominent figures such as Frederick II, the Sultan El Kamil and San Francis d’assisi. It is not just a simple tourist path, it is open to all cultures, religions and people of any social status. For example, amid the enchanting setting of the Quarto Santa Chiara plateau, you can take guided walks by foot or by bicycle and a visit to the splendid Celestine Hermitage of the Madonna dell’altare. The path of Forgivenes­s is born from the desire to rediscover those foundation­s and those persons who favored the reconcilia­tion between people after centuries of war from the Crusades and conveys an invaluable universal message (of peace).

On board the Trans-siberian you can sing, dance and taste typical food and wine products from Abruzzo and Molise.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS AND LIVING NATIVITY SCENE TRAINS

During Christmas time, the Trans-siberian has special trains to see Christmas markets and a live nativity scene. In December from Sulmona to Carovilli, it is possible to travel on the “Centoporte” carriages of the nineteen twenties to discover true Christmas magic. The Christmas markets train starts in Sulmona and runs along a panoramic stretch of the Peligna Valley and Colle Mitra. The first stop is in Casano, in the middle of the Majella National Park, where you can taste typical sweets of the Abruzzo region and drink mulled wine. In Campo di Giove, a pastoral village, the markets are located in the picturesqu­e Duval square. Experience tastings of local products, music and entertainm­ent for children. After admiring the breathtaki­ng panorama of the Quarto di Santa Chiara plateau, at an altitude of 1,258 meters another must-see stop is the markets of Roccaraso. A mountain resort of the Alto Sangro, in winter, Roccaraso, is one of the most famous ski resorts of the Apennines.

The Piazza Leone, is surrounded by characteri­stic wooden houses, wherein lies various entertainm­ent, tastings and lots of music. Palena is one of the most beautiful villages in the region and a stop with a bit of mystery. It’s known as the “village of the brigands”, because here the criminals gathered to celebrate and plan new raids in the inns and bars. Palena is the second highest ski station in Italy and has been used as a film location for winter scenes. The most famous being scenes in David Leans masterpiec­e “Doctor Zhivago”. The Living Nativity train starts from Sulmona and makes stops midway at Campo di Giove and Palena to allow for a brief walk about and tograb a quick refreshmen­t in the two high altitude stations. In Carovilli, part of the Altomolise region, a walk to the historical center is a must. People gather in the square to start the torchlight walk to the hamlet of Fontecurel­li, the location of the Living Nativity scene.

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