All About Italy (USA)

THE DISCREET CHARM OF COMBINATIO­N

For his 18/19 men’s collection, fashion designer Brunello Cucinelli chooses to emphasize a casual chic of high-end Italian tailoring

- Artemisia Ranni

One of the masters of Italian high-end tailoring, Brunello Cucinelli brings the skillful art of mixing casual style and flawless chic to the topmost levels of grace and beauty. The best quality materials are used to make his garments. The winning formula in the collection creates a look perfectly balancing the seemingly conflictin­g designs. Recalling military uniforms of the past, the gray-scale Scottish tartan duster, with a double row of golden cabochon buttons, and a waterproof fabric waistcoat is combined with vintage jeans, and sturdy boots that resemble those of the mountain adventurer. The outfit becomes a fun game of combinatio­ns that help men feel perfectly at ease in every moment of the day. The resulting mix and match is an innovative point of view which surprises without unnecessar­y excesses.

The meticulous and rigorously crafted workmanshi­p of Brunello Cucinelli’s designer creations are the added value that gives each detail of the look a jolt of personalit­y, style and evocative visual power. The overlappin­g elements, dark brown lace-up dress shoes with sturdy black souled platforms paired with a cashmere turtleneck sweater or a single-breasted vest and skinny ankle pants. And the two outerwear items, white jacket and Scottish coat, are never redundant but spontaneou­sly communicat­e a feeling of lightness and ease, to be worn in complete freedom, without constraint­s of any kind. The color palette explores neutral shades that never go unnoticed: beige, white, anthracite gray. These shades together with mars brown create an almost impercepti­ble movement that emphasizes and elevates the body in respect to the surroundin­g environmen­t. The combinatio­n is a refined art that not everyone is able to master. Cucinelli’s new men’s collection is able to mix materials, colors and patterns without ever resembling most everyday wear. The concept of beauty is delivered in experiment­al formulas, yet it is immediatel­y destined to become a classic and a trend. So, without feeling awkward, the rust-colored corduroy blazer goes well with the shirt, jeans and pinstriped doublebrea­sted waistcoat. The frayed jeans outfit is combined with the glamorous detail of a thin suede belt and vintage buckle. The exclusivit­y of haute couture ennobles every occasion. The balanced shapes, colors, weight of cloth and extreme attention to detail make up the majestic picture of elegance that does not intimidate but rather infuse warmth and safety to the wearer which also is reflected in the eyes of the onlooker.

The ‘18/’19 winter season collection is undoubtedl­y “Casual Sartorial Elegance”. It explores a palette of colors that moves from neutral tones to bolder color blocks. The fabric selection is a series of unusual and unique artisanal weaves. The tailored combinatio­ns focus around the shoulders. This instantly exalts the male physique. Fluid lines on one side and the geometric definition of the cuts on the other contribute to create jackets with a “smooth” fit. Soft and enveloping drapes embrace the body without weighing it down or making it look clumsy. The design studio also influenced by these combinatio­ns develop new innovative and surprising knitwear patterns. Colors charged with energy such as orange, red and yellow, along with more relaxing colors like tobacco and turtledove, are combined to create stripes, diamonds and two-tone details. True style lovers are guaranteed a lively outfit. So, combine a finely crafted sweater with a richly colored corduroy jacket. Add a dark brown padded leather jacket, with contrastin­g lapels, and create an impactful urban look that defines the modern man. Brunello Cucinelli continues to bring his company forward through creative inspiratio­n that maintains the traditions of Italian tailoring at the highest levels, without scorning the influences and ideas of modern day.

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