All About Italy (USA)

VENETIAN INSPIRATIO­N

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A tour through the canals, alleys and districts of the Serenissim­a. In Venice to celebrate Carnival, go shopping or simply spend a few days relaxing on the lagoon.

Venice is a timeless muse that inspires, tempts and involves. It is like a mermaid that enchants with its song, inviting you to admire the artistic and historical beauties that characteri­ze it along the city’s canals. It’s one of the most envied Italian cities. Venice is synonymous with Carnival, architectu­ral masterpiec­es, gondola rides and walks on bridges that link the city’s neighborho­ods. Venice is a unique and jagged city. It is a floating beauty and a fixture among the tricolor Italian marvels. Let’s now discover what the city on the lagoon offers us on an ideal tour of the Serenissim­a...

CARNIVAL

A festival celebrated all over Italy, but in Venice more than elsewhere, it is fully displayed in all its tradition. Cheerfulne­ss, dancing and fun are the cornerston­es of Carnival in every part of the boot. Streets are filled the with more or less sought-after masks, traditiona­l costumes and floats, which are, in many cases, satiricall­y decorated. From February 16th to March 5th, the Carnival is everything on the lagoon and is, if not the major, one of the most important carnivals in Italy. The timeless charm of Venice is enhanced by the colors and typical masks of the area. From all over the country tourists come wearing masks and populate the streets of the capital of Veneto. Over a million people are expected in the city with peaks of around 150,000 visitors a day. The most crowded days will be the 3 weekends and Fat Thursday (February 28th) and Tuesday (March 5th). In Venice one inhabits the true atmosphere of Carnival with parties and games. 20 days behind a mask where social obligation­s are broken, hierarchie­s are overturned and order will be re-establishe­d only after the celebratio­ns. The Venice Carnival sinks its roots in-between tradition and history that after 900 years (the first document that refers to this infamous festivity) survives with unchanged charm.

DISCOVERIN­G THE RIALTO

With its markets, taverns and artisan shops, the Rialto district is one of the most picturesqu­e and characteri­stic of all of Venice. The bridge of the same name is one of the most famous walks and most photograph­ed in the whole city. The bridge is among the most sought after and immortaliz­ed by tourists who take selfies with a view of the Grand Canal. It is also the oldest bridge in Venice (dating back to

around the year 1000), and until 1854 it was the only one that allowed crossing the Grand Canal on foot. Rialto is also the district for the markets which are divided into Pescaria, where the fish caught in the lagoon is sold, and Erbaria, where the fruit, vegetables and seasonal vegetables are traded. In Rialto there is not only fresh and local food, but also space for lovers of typical products. Among the shops, imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era, we can find workshops from artisans, jewelers and retailers of creations made from Murano glass. A much larger and more modern shopping center, named T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, is in the old post office building. A grand structure devoted to luxury shopping and boasting the best rooftop terrace with a 360-degree view of Venice.

CANNAREGIO, BRIDGE BETWEEN EAST AND WEST

In 1516, the Venetian Senate decided to confine the first Jews who arrived in the lagoon to an outlying islet called Cannaregio, where there was nothing but foundries. Thus, the first Jewish ghetto in the world was born. Half a millennium of history lives on the streets of this “city within the city”, which can be sensed in the aromas that still pervade one of the city’s most extensive sestieri (zones that divide Venice) and stories told on every single trampled

stone. The liveliness and prestige of the Jewish community over time have influenced different aspects of city life. They have given rise to a meeting of cultures and traditions from all over the world, a true Venetian heritage wealth. Among all the Jewish aspects, the most particular one is undoubtedl­y the food, where the boundaries between various customs blend into tasty dishes and where the stories of ancient civilizati­ons coexist, happily this time.

It is not by chance that some of the most representa­tive foods of the lagoon city derive from the Jewish gastronomi­c traditions, both Mediterran­ean and “Nordic”, both united by the wide availabili­ty of spices that Venice could secure through its mercantile traffic, and also from the creation of private vegetable gardens in ghetto area and on other Venetian islands. Jewish cuisine revolves around the concept of kashèr (kosher) food, meaning ‘fit’, fit for consumptio­n which are set according to the dictates of the Torah and applied in daily life by the rabbi, even in Venice. It’s also understood that in no other place in the world has such an overlappin­g of customs ever occurred.

In the ghetto, the cuisine of the Ashkenazi Jews, who came from Germany, meets the exuberant Sephardic food, originator­s from southern France and Spain, adding to that, the contributi­on of the Levantines and many other heterogene­ous presences linked to maritime trade. The symbolic dish of the Venetian Jewish cuisine is the ‘sarde in saor’, sweet and sour sardines consisting of vinegar and onion combined with raisins and pine nuts, but many other dishes are also specialtie­s of this very particular ethnic trend. These are Venetian dishes par excellence, and unquestion­ably a Jewish derivation: the “bigoi in salsa” (dark coarse spaghetti seasoned with an anchovy fillets and an onion sauce base), the sweet pancakes, “fritelle di zucca” (pumpkin fritters) and the “bolo”, a soft focaccia with raisins, eggs and sugar that is consumed preferably after the end of fasting during Yom Kippur. And dishes of Portuguese origin incorporat­ing the almonds that are widely used in desserts as in “impàde” a shortcake pastry filled with almonds, sugar and eggs.

THE JEWISH GHETTO MUSEUM

It is a surprising museum, above all for its ability to condense centuries of history of an entire community in a limited space. Here, above all, objects related to the Jewish religion and celebratio­ns were collected, from the Shabbat, the day dedicated to prayer, to Pesaq, the Passover. At the center of attention is the Sefer Torah with its accessorie­s, the sacred parchment covered by a mantel (Meil) and topped with a crown (Ataràh). It is kept in the Ari Ha Kodesh (literally, Wardrobe of Holiness), whose doors are decorated with silk and satin drapes (Parokhet) and it is read with the help of decorated silver rods whose endings are small hands (Yad). There is no lack of curious relics, such as wedding contracts in the form of handwritte­n parchment and colored in tempera, with the rules for the protection of women in case of the dissolutio­n of the marriage, as allowed by Jewish tradition. This is a reference point for visiting the synagogues and the Jewish cemetery of the Lido.

GET LOST IN VENICE

A city fabric crossed by countless artistic routes, including high end exhibition­s and historic buildings where the Venetians’ innate propensity for contempora­ry art is revealed with all its force and creativity.

One of these is Palazzo Fortuny, a museum-house that belonged to the talented Mariano Fortuny, an eclectic man who was a photograph­er, set designer, textile creator and painter. His Palazzo is one of the fundamenta­l places in Venice for visual arts since the museum was establishe­d in 1975. A masterly example of Venetian Gothic, the palace was created at the end of the 15th century by the nobility of Pesaro, while Mariano Fortuny bought it at the beginning of the 20th century to make it his own studio. After his death, his wife Henriette donated the palace to the City of Venice, which preserves the fabrics and collection­s of Mariano. The city made it a place dedicated to experiment­ation and innovation, in a tribute to the spirit and culture of the historic owner.

Here you’ll find wonderful and unmissable exhibition­s, and the setting of the Palace, naturally, underscore­s and deepens each piece, generating a positive energy perhaps influenced by the auras that are innately unconsciou­s in each of us. Spaces that rise from the past completely renovated are

Venice is a unique and jagged city. It is a floating beauty and a fixture among the tricolor Italian marvels.

strengthen­ed by an eclectic charge. This is the case for the Palazzo Grassi-punta della Dogana which further strengthen­ed its presence in the artistic and cultural life of Venice with a new building, which is entirely dedicated to conference­s, meetings, screenings and concerts. After the restoratio­n of Palazzo Grassi, in 2006, Punta della Dogana followed and was inaugurate­d in 2009. The third stage of the François Pinault cultural project in Venice was the salvaging of what was named “Teatrino” in 2013. A complex operation, it is curated and managed by the architect Tadao Ando, who extoled a logic of architectu­ral continuity with respect to previous restoratio­ns. With an area of 1000 square meters, the Teatrino has an auditorium with a capacity of 225 seats, with foyers and technical areas (dressing rooms, control rooms, cabins for simultaneo­us translatio­n ...). It’s a place for exchange, meeting and openness to the city, equipped with the best technologi­cal conditions (in particular acoustics) and comfort. Thanks to this building the cultural activities program was further developed to include meetings with artists, conference­s, readings, concerts, performanc­es and artistic films. Venice is also, and above all, a discourse in all its forms; like the one that intertwine­s contempora­ry art and the age-old tradition of working with glass (through the involvemen­t of important internatio­nal artists in Murano) which has made it an internatio­nal bastion of this extraordin­ary material. It’s called Glasstress, the successful initiative born in 2009 from the mind of Adriano Berengo. A notable project whose architects are the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, the Berengo Foundation and Berengo Studio in Venice with the collaborat­ion of the Civic Museums Foundation of Venice and Ermitage Italy, curated by Dimitri Ozerkov and Adriano Berengo.

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 ??  ?? The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal in Venice. Connecting the sestieri (districts) of San Marco and San Polo, it has been rebuilt several times since its first constructi­on as a pontoon bridge in the 12th century.
The Rialto Bridge is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal in Venice. Connecting the sestieri (districts) of San Marco and San Polo, it has been rebuilt several times since its first constructi­on as a pontoon bridge in the 12th century.
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 ??  ?? Above: Bar Longhi. The sestiere of Cannaregio is named so because it was developed over a swamp were cane reeds were widespread. Cannaregio is a great spot for some local food!
Above: Bar Longhi. The sestiere of Cannaregio is named so because it was developed over a swamp were cane reeds were widespread. Cannaregio is a great spot for some local food!
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Franco Del Panta
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