IT’S TIME FOR CLOISTERS
At times, one is able go beyond a blatantly stunning façade in order to discover the most intimate jewels; once again set off from these and resurface allowing oneself to be amazed by the marvel which pervades the gaze. Should one abide by this philosophy, one may approach abbeys, churches, monastery complexes and villages, something which the area between the provinces of Parma, Piacenza and Reggio Emilia is very rich of, starting from the cloisters. Center-point of ingeniously designed structures, they also provide nourishment for eyes distracted by the infinite habits of the urban landscape. These spaces are secret, yet open to anyone who sees spirituality in a neutral way; that is as a very intimate and personal moment. They are, however, just as much open to those that – very plainly – feel like going for a stroll with their eyes or their feet into those architectural jewels which have hosted so many dialectical and meditative marathons over the centuries.
PARMA
Together with the Cathedral, Parma is also home to the Monastero di San Giovanni Evangelista. It is an art and history treasure trove that preserves much more than the splendid dome frescoed by Correggio and the Storica Spezieria, the former historic pharmacy now turned into a museum. Among the secrets best kept by the imposing walls of this Benedictine complex dating back to the 10th century, are three cloisters. These are a true haven of peace in the city’s historic center, and their access point is located to the right of the church’s exit. What strikes the visitor upon entering, is the silence. Visitors are welcomed by the Benedictine inscription: Ora et labora written along the wall of the first cloister, named “San Giovanni” or “della Porta,” which is the most recent. Built between 1537 and 1538, it has a colonnade with Ionic columns, a central fountain inaugurated in 1589 and remains of frescoes dating back to the late 1500s, such as those by Leonardo da Monchio and Ercole Pio, dated 1579. A door on the right-hand side allows access to the Monumental Library and the astonishing pictorial decoration by Abbot Stefano Cattaneo da Novara, which comprises 5 geographical maps, Christ’s genealogy and 3 chronologies, 4 areas illustrated with archetypal constructions from the Old Testament, the celebration of the victory in Lepanto, the decoration of the grotesque vaults and that of the lunettes above the two doors. Below the loggia of the following cloister, the oldest and not surprisingly known as the Capitolo (Chapter), is where the chapter house opens up. The biggest one of the three cloisters, however, is the Chiostro di San Benedetto, built between 1508 and 1512 and characterized by a very elegant trait which provides a sense of lightness to the 36-column colonnade, each separated from the following by 26 small circles with images of saints painted by Giovanni Battista Merano and Tommaso Aldovrandini at the end of the 17th century.
A tour into discovering quiet spots for contemplation, art and meditation at the spiritual heart of the Emilia Romagna region between Parma, Piacenza and Reggio Emilia, in the North of Italy.