TRADITIONS WIN(E)
Brunello di Montalcino means so much more than just wine. The king of red wines has the warm and harmonious taste of tradition, of the virtues of an extraordinarily generous territory, of respect for nature and its rhythms and of a sustainable future
Of the many areas of Italy dedicated to winemaking – which is arguably a worldwide banner of Italian know-how – Montalcino, to the south of Siena (Tuscany), is certainly one of the most interesting. What makes it such is so much more than the fact that it guards one of the Belpaese’s most evocative and iconic landscapes. There, you can discover a microcosm dedicated to preserving the king of red wines: his majesty, king Brunello.
The story begins a long time ago, most likely with the Etruscans who were renowned winemakers. They were the very first to understand the extraordinary potential the grapes from this territory actually had. The Brunello wine’s exceptional value comes from the vineyards, strictly harvested only in the municipality of Montalcino, in an area that extends for 60 thousand acres to the northeast of the town. It is a densely wooded and hilly terrain located at heights ranging from 150 to 500 meters (490 to 1640 feet) above sea level sheltered to the south by the heights of Monte Amiata. The elevation, the soil and the warm dry Mediterranean climate allow the Sangiovese grapes – from which the Brunello is made – to ripen at their best in order for them to then be processed with a method that is both meticulous and patient. From dry pruning to the selection of the fittest shoots, from containing the vegetation to the trimming of bunches, all processes sharing the same goal: reaping and selecting the best fruits. It is a task to which winemakers are so dedicated that they have chosen not to produce at what production regulations allow as the maximum capacity of grapes per hectare. In doing so, Brunello winemakers do their utmost in order to preserve the wine’s best quality.
FROM BEING A WINE FOR CONNOISSEURS TO BECOMING A UNIVERSAL MADE IN ITALY SYMBOL
Despite the fact that its origins are lost in faraway times, Brunello has only become world-renowned in relatively recent times. At first, it became well-known after having been granted the status of D.O.C. – wine with a designated controlled origin – together with just eight other Italian wines. Thereafter, in 1967, notoriety increased thanks at the creation of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello
di Montalcino, an association of winemakers whose primary objective is to safeguard the product and enhance its unique qualities. Climbing the ladder of success that in 1980 has led to conquering global markets when Brunello di Montalcino became the first Italian wine to be granted the highest quality recognition, with the Designation of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin (DOCG).
BRUNELLO CONQUERS THE STATES
Ever since its creation, the Consorzio has provided support to associated winemakers in their partaking of trade fairs and of the consortium’s events that take place both in Italy and abroad. The aim of the consortium is to give visibility to this wine’s valuable history and make it known throughout the world. One such events is the Brunello Week, which takes place in New York as part of the “Finally, Brunello” project. June 14th to 20th sees the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino bringing a touch of Italian spirit to New York restaurants. Fifty-six winemakers, members of the Consorzio, 40 restaurants and two private clubs between Manhattan and Brooklyn will come together for seven days of vibrant food and wine experiences featuring
Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. www.finallybrunello.com
TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE
Woods, dirt roads, a few scattered pastures along the soft contours of a lush vegetation – the Brunello di Montalcino’s quality cannot but be inextricably linked to the wonderful process of safeguarding the territories it originates from. This is why more and more winemakers are investing commitment, passion and resources in a sustainable, organic and biodynamic approach. Through environmental sustainability, sustainable and eco-friendly architecture, a decrease in carbon emissions and even homeopathy, these wineries have a single common goal: making wine while protecting the environment, leaving behind a safe and healthy terroir for future generations.
CORTE PAVONE
In 1996, Rainer Loacker – a wine producer from South Tyrol – fell in love with Montalcino and bought four Hectares of land around a winery he named “Corte Pavone.” Today, it is an 18-Hectare vineyard managed by his son Hayo, which was strictly built in accordance with biodynamics and homeopathic principles. The vineyards are treated with biodynamic products several times a year. A vineyard, in fact, requires the necessary information in order to develop and take in the essential factors needed to grow. As for homeopathy, Hayo and his family are certain that by using it, they are able boost the estate’s biotope in a sustainable manner. According to him, in fact, homeopathy aids in strengthening plants against environmental influences. Although the work process it requires is quite demanding, it yields incredibly rewarding results for the winery, as well as for the environment. In 2002, a new three-storey cellar was built in Corte Pavone, all in accordance with bioarchitecture principles.
CAMIGLIANO
Camigliano winery uses the technique of controlled cover cropping to prevent weeds from growing.
This technique has been practiced with interesting agronomic outcomes as well as excellent outcomes for the environment, thus leading to its potential use in controlling all vegetative activity.
Cover cropping here means planting legumes and alternating rows of legumes to rows of vineyards. This is done because they have the quality of fixing natural nitrogen in the soil and producing organic substances. Inter-row hoers are used to clean the rows allowing the vines and their roots to be kept intact, which also totally avoids the use of herbicides. A mixture of sulfur and copper is also used in order to keep the vines healthy and combat disease that can possibly infect the vines. Ever since these cultivation methods had been adopted, the vineyards drew great benefit and appear stronger and healthier. Optimal results are also achieved through the clonal selection of grapes which takes place after careful research of the outcomes based on the nature of the terrain. As a further step towards a natural approach – rather than using traditional fossil fuels – Camigliano’s cellars are heated using biomasses from the vineyards.
BANFI
Banfi is a global wine brand that comprises the internationally renowned Castello Banfi vineyard estate in Montalcino, Tuscany. Today, Banfi is managed by Cristina Mariani-may and her cousin James Mariani, representing the third generation of family leadership in a company founded in 1919 by their grandfather, John Mariani Sr. For Mariani-may and Banfi, innovation extends beyond winemaking. It begins in the vineyards and includes being responsible and being respectful of nature. An example of this at Castello Banfi has been the implementation of a “Bio-bed” system, developed in collaboration with the University of Pisa; a system which detoxifies wastewater. The Mariani-may leadership has also turned the estate to being rainwater-sourced and to having variable flowrate micro-irrigation, which have led to water savings of close to 80%. The estate also reduced to lightweight glass bottles, which is something that has lowered the winery’s carbon footprint to what would correspond to removing one hundred cars from the road.