Fun & Games

Here’s a quilt made for play. The large Churn Dash block has a checker­board cen­ter that could be used for chess or check­ers. It’s the per­fect ad­di­tion to any fam­ily room.

Annie's Quilt Spring 2019 - - Contents - De­sign by Lyn Brown Quilted By Cathy O’brien

Spec­i­fi­ca­tions

Skill Level: Con­fi­dent Be­gin­ner Quilt Size: 56" x 72" Block Sizes: 8" x 8" fin­ished and 16" x 16" fin­ished Num­ber of Blocks: 45 and 1

Ma­te­ri­als

• 1 fat eighth each light and dark salmon batiks*

• 3/8 yard dark ma­roon batik*

• 1 yard each light and dark pink batiks*

• 11/4 yards light ma­roon batik*

• 21/ 3 yards white-with-pink batik*

• Back­ing to size

• Bat­ting to size

• Thread

• Ba­sic sewing tools and sup­plies

*Batiks from Hoff­man Cal­i­for­nia- In­ter­na­tional Fab­rics used to make sam­ple.

Cut­ting From light salmon batik:

• Cut 2 (21/2" x 20") strips. Sub­cut strips into 12 (21/2") H squares.

From dark salmon batik:

• Cut 2 (21/2" x 20") strips. Sub­cut strips into 12 (21/2") J squares.

From dark ma­roon batik:

• Cut 1 (87/ 8" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 3 (87/ 8") E squares and 12 (21/2") I squares. Cut each E square in half on 1 di­ag­o­nal to make 6 E tri­an­gles.

From light pink batik:

• Cut 3 (91/4" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut strips into 10 (91/4") squares. Cut each square on both di­ag­o­nals to make 40 A tri­an­gles. Dis­card 1 tri­an­gle.

From dark pink batik:

• Cut 3 (91/4" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut strips into 10 (91/4") squares. Cut each square on both di­ag­o­nals to make 40 B tri­an­gles. Dis­card 1 tri­an­gle.

From light ma­roon batik:

• Cut 3 (31/2" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut strips into 5 (31/2" x 161/2") L strips

and 2 (31/2" x 81/2") N strips.

• Cut 1 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 12 (21/2") F squares.

• Cut 7 (21/4" by fab­ric width) bind­ing strips.

From white-with-pink batik:

• Cut 5 (91/4" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut strips into 20 (91/4") C squares and 15 (21/2") G squares. Cut each C square on both di­ag­o­nals to make 80 C tri­an­gles. Dis­card 2 tri­an­gles.

• Cut 1 (87/ 8" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 3 (87/ 8") D squares and 15 (21/2") G squares. Cut each D square in half on 1 di­ag­o­nal to make 6 D tri­an­gles.

• Cut 1 (161/2" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 10 (3" x 161/2") K strips and

18 (21/2") G squares (48 G squares to­tal).

• Cut 1 (31/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 4 (3" x 81/2") M strips.

Com­plet­ing the Hour­glass Blocks

1. Select one each A and B tri­an­gle and two C tri­an­gles to com­plete one Hour­glass block.

2. Sew A to C and B to C to make one each A- C and B- C unit as shown in Fig­ure 1; press.

3. Join the A- C and B- C units as shown in Fig­ure 2 to com­plete one Hour­glass block; press.

4. Re­peat steps 1–3 to com­plete a to­tal of 39 Hour­glass blocks.

Com­plet­ing the Tri­an­gles Blocks

1. To com­plete one Tri­an­gles block, select one each D and E tri­an­gle.

2. Sew D to E along the di­ag­o­nal to com­plete one Tri­an­gles block as shown in Fig­ure 3; press.

3. Re­peat steps 1 and 2 to com­plete a to­tal of six Tri­an­gles blocks.

Com­plet­ing the Checker­board Block

1. Join two each I and J squares with four G squares to make row 1 as shown in Fig­ure 4; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three row 1’s.

2. Join two each F and H squares with four G squares to make row 2 as shown in Fig­ure 5; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three row 2’s.

3. Join two each I and J squares with four G squares to make row 3 as shown in Fig­ure 6; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three row 3’s.

4. Join two each F and H squares with four G squares to make row 4 as shown in Fig­ure 7; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three row 4’s.

5. Join rows 1– 4 in nu­mer­i­cal or­der to make a half-block re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 8; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three half-blocks.

6. Join two half-blocks to com­plete the Checker­board block as shown in Fig­ure 9; press.

7. Set aside the re­main­ing half-block for the half- checker­board sec­tion.

Com­plet­ing the Quilt

Re­fer to the As­sem­bly Di­a­gram as needed.

1. Sew a K strip to op­po­site sides of an L strip to make a K-L unit as shown KL in Fig­ure 10; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of five K-L units.

2. Sew a K-L unit to op­po­site sides of the Checker­board block to make a checker­board strip as shown in Fig­ure 11; press.

3. Sew a Tri­an­gles block to op­po­site ends of each re­main­ing K-L unit to make a block strip as shown in Fig­ure 12; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of three block strips. Set aside one block strip for the half- checker­board sec­tion.

4. Sew a block strip to the top and bot­tom of the checker­board strip to com­plete the checker­board unit as shown in Fig­ure 13; press.

5. Join four Hour­glass blocks to make a strip as shown in Fig­ure 14; press.

6. Sew the strip to the left edge of the checker­board unit as shown in Fig­ure 15; press.

7. Re­peat step 5 with five Hour­glass blocks, press and sew the strip to the top of the checker­board unit to com­plete the top left sec­tion of the pieced top; press.

8. Ar­range and join the re­main­ing Hour­glass blocks to make one each 10-unit and 20-unit sec­tion; press.

9. Sew the 10-unit sec­tion to the right edge of the top left sec­tion to com­plete the top half of the quilt top; press.

10. Sew an M strip to op­po­site sides of an N strip to make an M-N unit; press. Re­peat.

11. Sew an M-N unit to the short ends of the re­main­ing half-block and add the re­main­ing block strip to com­plete the half-checker­board sec­tion as shown in Fig­ure 16; press.

12. Join the half-checker­board sec­tion with the 20-unit sec­tion to com­plete the bot­tom half of the quilt top; press.

13. Join the two pieced halves to com­plete the quilt top; press.

14. Cre­ate a quilt sand­wich re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110.

15. Quilt as de­sired.

16. Bind edges re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110 to fin­ish. l

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