Raincoat a handsome investment
Q. I am lucky to have just gotten a promotion that includes meeting people out of the office. I need to upgrade my “outer layer.” I own a few short jackets, but not a full-length coat. I’m thinking of buying a standard trench coat that every man wears, something that would not be too heavy for this time of year or the fall. Do you think this is the way to go? And, if so, what style and color would you suggest?
A. You are right that this would be a smart purchase at this time, a wonderful way to celebrate that new position. Raincoats are big-ticket items and right now stores are showing a lot of options. More importantly, as is so often the case with men’s clothes, a raincoat does not go out of style, so long as you stick with relatively classic styling.
It’s smart to think about buying one that is not too heavy. Some of the old-fashioned, heavier raincoats with button-in or zip-in linings are becoming more a thing of the past. Everything is heated these days. You are in and out of cars and buildings, and a heavy coat can be bulky and stiflingly uncomfortable. But for the man whose wardrobe is missing a full-length coat, a handsome raincoat is a very nice addition to his closet.
For many years, the traditional raincoat (the one you refer to as “the standard trench coat that every man wears”) was a double-breasted khaki coat with a removable liner. These were not only perfect for rainy weather, but also ideal multipurpose coats for evening social wear and not too dressy for the office. In the more casual business environment of recent years, manufacturers have begun making simpler cuts, without all the bells and whistles that are part and parcel of the Burberry British officers’ coats worn in the trenches during World War I. While the original iconic style was elegant, dashing and flattering, it has become a bit too formal, too long, too heavy and too high maintenance for some men’s tastes.
Even so, I suggest you start your process in a top-flight store, one that carries the Burberry line. While you may not decide to buy this Rolls-royce of coats, once you try one on, you will know what the best looks and feels like and have a reference point for judging other brands and models. Today’s all-cotton, top-of-the-line Burberry trench coat — complete with epaulets, buckles, belt, an impressive loop or two (though lacking the original’s recognizable wool collar), will cost an arm and a leg, but other more current models move comfortably downward in price, as do styles from other makers. These include threequarter length, single-breasted styles (some with fly-front, concealed-button styling), and buttons in more noticeable, contrasting colors.
Among the most popular raincoats today is the cropped-to-the-knee length in a singlebreasted cut. These are lighter in weight, not belted, and much trimmer than traditional trench coats. They are made in a large range of brands, styles and prices. A long raincoat’s advantage over shorter jackets is its extreme versatility: It goes over everything from jeans and a suit to a tuxedo. In any of these, you will be dry, warm, well dressed, and, of course, better covered.
I happen to like raincoats in the classic khaki color, but other acceptable colors are olive and navy. Not quite as dressy or classic as the standard tan, they are practical. I am sometimes asked, “What color shoes should I wear with my raincoat?” My advice: Coordinate them with your suit or your pants.