Older ‘leaky’ homes may not require vapor barrier with insulation because of better air circulation
Q. A lot of us with older homes ( 100 years) are getting energy audits with recommendations to blow cellulose insulation into the empty exterior wall cavities. I have read that without a vapor barrier, moisture can be trapped in the walls, leading to mold and wood decay. Do you have an opinion on this?
A. I think that what you have heard is mostly an old wives’ tale. Thousands of houses have had insulation blown in without incident, mostly because old houses are so leaky that there is little or no chance for water vapor to build up and cause the insulation to take on water. Even vinyland aluminum-sided houses don’t have the problem.
But in some cases, water vapor builds up in tight houses until it forces its way through the inside wall surface, the vapor barrier and the insulation, hitting the back of the cool sheathing. The vapor condenses into water, which then goes through the sheathing and forces itself through siding, pushing the paint right off.
The vinyl siding people found a cure: Take off the siding, install sheets of 3/8-inch-thick Styrofoam on the sheathing and then put the siding back on. The insulation keeps the sheathing warm enough to prevent condensation of the water vapor. There might always be water vapor in the insulation, but it cannot condense because the sheathing is warm. It’s the only cure.
The ongoing problem is evident from the dampness in basements and the musty smell, caused by mold. The cure is simple: Ventilate all cellars and basements.
Q. My 1955 Cape-style house has a brick front, and the bricks are pulling away from the wall. My father, who discovered the problem, said the brick will likely need to be replaced. Is it possible to take off the brick and just put siding on the sheathing?
A. Taking off the brick is a given. The bricks were laid along the wall and secured to the sheathing by brick ties, aluminum or steel strips, with one end nailed on the wood sheathing and the other mortared into the brick.
The ties in your house were either broken or never installed. I think it was the latter. Putting siding up instead of new bricks is unlikely to work well, because the surface of the sheathing is not in the right place for siding. So, replace the brick.
The best brick to use is a water-struck or tapestry brick. Go to a brickyard and ask the owner or a knowledgeable salesperson which bricks would be best for your house.
Q. My nonstandard-height storm and screen door needs replacement. Do you know if it is possible to cut about two inches from the bottom of an aluminum storm door? Any other suggestions?
A. I don’t think you can trim an aluminum storm door, but since you imply that you haven’t bought the door yet, why not buy a wooden storm door and cut it to fit? The wood door can be stained or painted and, in my opinion, works and looks better than an aluminum one. The only alternative: Rebuild the entrance to accommodate a new door.
Q. I just replaced my threshold at the back door leading to the porch. Home Depot did not have a pressure-treated threshold, so they installed oak. How should I treat it to protect it from the elements?
A. It’s OK. Oak is the best for thresholds. Do
not paint it. Instead, use one coat of a semitransparent stain of the color of your choice. This will look good, will preserve the wood and will not peel. Redo it anytime, as long as it is a year or two after it was applied.
Q. My bathtub spout has a small space between the back of the spout and the tile wall. I tried putting latex caulk in that gap to prevent water from getting behind the spout. That caulk quickly eroded away, and so did a second application of the caulk. Am I using the wrong stuff? A. The caulk had to be wrong if it eroded away so quickly. Also, it is in the wrong place, and the gap is too narrow to grab hold of the caulking. You can try an adhesive caulk, such as Phenoseal or Polyseamseal. But instead, try moving the spout so it is flush with the wall. If it is hard to turn, stick a hammer handle in the spout to get better leverage.
Q. My bathroom floor tile is a dark-brown pattern. I was wondering if it is at all possible to lighten the floor tile.
A. I doubt it. There are reglazers who will coat some tile with an epoxy finish. But they usually do it on wall tile, not floor tile, because floors get more wear and tear. Your only recourse is to retain the tiles and decorate around them, or put new tiles on top of the old. The latter chore requires lifting the toilet and reinstalling it on the new floor.
Q. My son is building a huge harvest table-type dining table, and the best thing about it is that he asked Dad to help. It’s done, and it really looks good, and now my son wants to stain it for sort of a weathered look. He also does not want a high shine as the finish. What’s the best way to do this?
A. The Handyman salutes both Dad and son. Staining and finishing are not difficult, but both can be tricky. I think Minwax oil-based stains are
the best.
To stain the table, use the messy method, which is to dip a cloth in the stain, squeeze it out a bit and wipe quickly to avoid overlapping. The more you apply and the longer you let it stay on the wood, the darker the color. Practice makes perfect.
If it is too dark, the only cure is to sand it off and start over. Wear latex gloves because stain is hard to remove and is definitely not good for your skin.
The result will be an even coating, but with a flat finish. Since your son does not want a high shine, he can coat it with a satin (duller than semigloss and gloss) water-based polyurethane varnish, which will darken the stain the least. Try it on a scrap piece of wood to make sure you get what you want. An expensive brush will do the best job in your already skilled hands.