In the garden
QSeveral times you’ve mentioned repotting. What exactly do you mean by repotting a plant? Do you repot back into the same container or go to a larger pot? Do you do anything to the roots whether you use the same pot or a larger one?
A When a plant spends much time in a container, the plant becomes root-bound — the roots fill up whatever space is available and thus can’t grow much more. When the soil is bound up with roots, it is hard to keep the plant watered; the plant dries out quickly, and you will also see a slow-down in plant growth. Before repotting, you need to ask two questions: Is the plant the size you want it to be (or even larger that you’d like)? Or would you like it to get larger? If you want more growth, then repot to a larger container, which can handle more roots and thus more top growth. If the plant is about the size you want, you can replant it in the same container. For either scenario, you need to alleviate the root-bound conditions by shaving some roots off the sides and at the base of the mass of roots. I use a serrated bread knife to
do this. Then shake off the old soil and repot in your container, adding fresh potting soil. The plant can now grow new roots and you will also have an easier time keeping it watered.
Q A friend has a fig bush that is doing great. She harvested lots of figs. She wants to know if a new fig bush can be started by simply planting a branch in the dirt. Will it survive and grow that way?
A Layering is a great way to start a new plant while it is attached to the mother plant. Find a flexible lower limb and mound some soil over it — slightly wound the base of the branch that will be underground, then put a rock or brick on it to hold it in place. Leave it there until spring, and you should have a newly rooted plant. You can then cut the branch from the mother tree.
Q My son and his family planted a bed about 4 by 4 feet with gladioli for me on Mother’s Day this spring. We prepared the bed with topsoil and potting soil, and I kept it watered all summer as needed. It had what I considered the correct amount of sun. The bulbs produced healthylooking leaves, but only one bulb had a bloom stem, and it only filled out with pretty blooms about halfway. Would you have any ideas why they didn’t bloom? I also need to know what I should do at this point as they begin to grow yellow. Should I cut the blades off and hope they will come up next year and bloom, or should I dig them up and replant them, perhaps at another location next year? I would like to put some pansies in the bed for this winter. Could I just place them around the bulbs?
A When you buy new bulbs, the hope is that they contain a flower for that season — whether they are planted in sun or shade. If the bulbs were too small, they might not bloom the first season; but if you are buying from a reputable source, you sure hope they will bloom for Year One. For now, you have two choices. You can dig and store the bulbs to replant next spring, or leave them where they are, cut the old foliage off, mulch and wait for next summer. You can plant pansies around them; just be careful not to damage the bulbs while digging for your fall planting. We used to recommend digging glads every year because they lacked winter hardiness, but they have been overwintering outdoors quite nicely. Hopefully the bulbs got larger this growing season and you will have blooms next summer.
Q This plant (see photo) is growing as a volunteer in the woods on my property. The flower starts out as green balls all summer, then turns light pink and opens to this odd but beautiful flower. Do you know what this bushy plant is?
A The plant in question is the native Euonymus americanus — commonly called strawberry tree or hearts-abursting. It is a great native shrub for a shade garden. The actual flowers are tiny green blooms, which then set the green balls. The fruits mature to a pink outer shell and when ripe, pop open to expose the bright orange seeds.