Layering, if done correctly, extends life of stained item
Q. I have a secret technique and I wonder if it is acceptable. When a favorite shirt or tie has an un-removable stain, I switch it into a winter pile that I then wear under a sweater or a jacket that I will keep closed. Obviously, I risk embarrassment if there is a sudden reason to shed the top layer, but that has never happened. Any reason I shouldn’t go with this approach?
A. I would say that it does sound ingenious, but it also sounds like an excellent excuse to avoid the clothing paring-down that we all should do. Now is the perfect time of year to discard clothes that should no longer be in your closet. The old rule is: If you have not worn something for two or more years, get rid of it. Odds are that the shirt color or the cuffs are heading toward discoloring or fraying, and the tie is likely to be out-dated. If you are sure there are no such problems with your shirt or tie, you certainly can continue with your practice.
Still, are you sure the stain is un-removable? There are spot removers that work on cotton shirts, wool jackets and silk ties. A spot remover eliminates the need to dry clean and press a favorite tie that got splashed with a bit of soup or salad dressing. Your neighborhood dry cleaner can remove spots but generally is not equipped to deal with pressing a tie so that the ridges from the lining don’t show through. My all-time favorite product has been Goddard’s Dry Clean Spot Remover. It was always on my shelf. Unfortunately, the product is no longer being manufactured, probably because it contains some non-environmentally friendly ingredients. You may be able to find a stockpile online. A suggested replacement product is Angelus Brand Dry Cleaner and Spot Remover.
But if you are not a do-ityourselfer, you can go to the tie and shirt tailors that I have suggested in the past: TieCrafters, a shop in New York, has been in business for decades, cleaning ties and even narrowing them. Call (212) 629-5800. When they clean a tie, they open it up and press it so no ridges appear. And L. Allmeier, stupendous shirt surgeons who can do all kinds of magic with your best shirts. They can cut down collars, shorten sleeves, replace worn collars and cuffs, etc. Call (212) 2437390. If you have confidence in your cleaner/tailor, give him one tie to work on. Tell him what you’re looking for and need, and see if he can do it. But it needs to be a perfect job — not just “good enough.”
I should say that I am impressed with your recognizing how useful layering can be and how it can create a great look. It’s become very popular lately. Even when you are not trying to hide some flaws in your clothing, all men should know that layering is a smart strategy for dressing. Collared shirts and jeans or slacks can be really boring. Add anything else to the combination you are wearing, and you’re already ahead of the game. Then, if what you add is a good-looking sweater or a sports jacket (or perhaps a sweater and a sports jacket), you are entering into the realm of stylish dressing … never a bad thing. Sweaters and sport jackets function perfectly as added layers, but it could just as easily be something like a cardigan or a vest. And, if you happen to have a large dose of self-confidence, you might even wrap a scarf around your neck for a bit of flair. I must admit, this is not a look that every man can pull off or feel comfortable with.
A big plus: Layering is not limited by any age definitions. It is always appropriate. Just be sure to apply all the rules of color coordination that you have learned. And here is one more rule: Your outer layer should be longer than your inner layers. I know that today’s teens and 20-somethings are overly fond of untucked shirt tails hanging out from under a sweater, but I hate the look. It’s an unkempt, sloppy style that suggests a kid who has outgrown his clothes … or worse, a man who is trying to act like a kid.