Sealing home’s heating and air ducts should provide energy savings
Q. My home-improvement center sells a half-dozen types of duct tape. I have tried a couple of them to seal the joints in my metal heating/air-conditioning ducts. Each of the tapes came loose in a year or so, and so far I have been unable to find a sealer. Can you help?
A. Most so-called duct tapes sold at home centers and hardware stores are not suitable for sealing heating and air-conditioning ducts. Some of these tapes have many uses, but they are misnamed — “utility tape” would be a better name.
Heating technicians who do duct sealing usually use either a glue-like mastic or a special metallic-faced tape (often called “foil-faced”) that stays in place despite frequent temperature changes, expansion and contraction, and changes in pressure that occur in ducts.
Caulks that remain flexible and adhere well to metal, such as urethane and silicone, are also sometimes used.
Do-it-yourselfers will probably fare better with metallic
tape, which has a neater appearance but costs more than mastic. Be sure the label speci es that the tape is suitable
for ducts.
Mastic is usually applied in a thick coat using an old paintbrush. It is messy work, and you should wear rubber or plastic gloves and eye protection. The mastic stays flexible so it can move with any movements within the ducts. Water-based mastic called Master Flow is sold at some home centers and heating-supply dealers; a 1/2-gallon plastic tub costs about $12. However, do-it-yourselfers will
probably fare better with metallic tape, which has a neater appearance but costs more than mastic. Some home centers, hardware stores and heating-supply dealers sell special metallic tapes — but before buying, be sure the label specifies that the tape is suitable for ducts.
Sealing duct leaks is a worthwhile project that is often ignored when ducts are installed, but sealing can result in significant energy savings and improve comfort by delivering more heated or cooled air to places where it is wanted.
This answer should not be considered a put-down of regular “duct” tapes. Duct tapes have been used to repair everything from airplanes to plumbing pipes to upholstery. There are many different types, ranging from the inexpensive, silver-colored rolls with which every do-it-yourselfer is familiar to specialty tapes that are transparent or can be used outdoors or have decorative patterns.
One of my favorites is 3M’s No-Residue Tough Duct Tape, which can be left in place for several months, then pulled off without leaving a messy residue.
Q. My kitchen cabinets are good quality, but they are old and starting to look shabby. I also don’t like the dark, stained color. How can I renew these cabinets inexpensively?
A. Probably the simplest and least costly approach is to paint the cabinets.
Some special cabinet paints are available, but almost any high-quality enamel will do.
The first step to getting a good appearance is to clean the cabinets thoroughly, since they will probably have picked up some grease and polish over the years that could cause problems with paint adherence. Use a degreasing cleaner, available at any supermarket or home center, to scrub down the surfaces you’ll paint.
Next, lightly sand the surfaces with 100grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots and repair any defects such as nicks. Small defects can be filled with vinyl spackling compound and smoothed with sandpaper.
Before removing the cabinet doors, number the doors so you can put them back on the same cabinets after painting. Also remove (and number) the hardware, including hinges and handles or knobs.
Lay the doors flat on a table or floor protected by a tarp or plastic sheeting. Apply a latex primer, such as Bulls-Eye 1-2-3. When the primer is dry, check again for rough spots, sand them smooth and use a damp cloth to wipe off the sanding dust.
When painting, use water-based (latex) enamel and a good quality brush to apply it. Spray enamels are available, of course, but they are difficult to use in a kitchen without getting paint on surfaces that shouldn’t be painted. Let the first coat of paint dry and sand it lightly, then apply a second coat.
Another finishing system you might want to check out before starting your project is Rustoleum’s Cabinet Transformation, sold in kit form. You can find information, including a how-to video, on the Internet. Cabinet Transformation is basically what used to be called antiquing.
A base coat, which Rust-Oleum calls a binder, is applied to the surfaces, followed by a glaze. Most of the glaze is wiped off with rags while it is still wet. When the glaze is dry, a protective clear coat is applied. Dozens of colors are available, including some light tones that mimic stained wood finishes. Prices start at about $75 for a kit with enough materials to cover 100 square feet.