Learning shirt terms helps shoppers collar correct cut

Q. There are lots of catalogs that describe the actual cloth elements, but can you tell me what some of these actually mean? What is a good shirt to wear for business, dress-up or casual (pinpoint oxford, broadcloth, etc.) or should I really focus on the collar and the cut?

Which of these various terms are actually meaningful and which are just the newest way to describe an item of clothing that already has a more established name?

A. At this time of year, when the mailman brings a new catalog every other day and the Internet offers easy access to just about everything, it is clear that you can do a lot of shopping — for yourself and for gifts — from home. Many men hate to go into stores (as do many of those shopping for them); they enjoy their new ability to stay home and shop at the same time. But your problem is one of the most common associated with buying clothes through a catalog or website: that is, vocabulary.

While browsing through some of the country’s better-known catalogs, checking out shirts and sweaters to go with them, I came across a variety of words that are familiar to me but that I’ll bet a lot of men are either clueless about or, at least, not quite sure about.

I have chosen some terms that are known in the clothing industry, but that you may be unsure of.

HENLEY

This is a casual, collarless shirt that is a cross between a very casual T-shirt and a dressier polo shirt. It is characterized by a round neckline that opens at the neck, usually with two to five buttons; it is similar to a polo shirt, but has no collar. The shirt, spelled “henley,” is named after the town in England, Henley-on-Thames, where such shirts were traditionally worn by crew teams in the annual regatta.

POLO VS. POLO

Polo, spelled with a capital “P,” is a brand name used by the Ralph Lauren Co. Polo, spelled with a lowercase “p,” is a short-sleeved or long-sleeved knit sport shirt that has a collar and a placket opening at the neck with a few buttons and buttonholes. It is certainly possible to buy a Polo polo shirt!

MOCK TURTLENECK

The mock turtleneck is a pullover sport shirt or sweater that comes up higher on the neck than a crewneck, but not high enough to turn down to create a turtleneck. Many men find them more comfortable than true turtlenecks, which can be bulky at the neck. They work alone or layered.

BROADCLOTH

This is a smooth, closely woven, untextured weave of cotton fabric. It is usually found in fine business shirts, formal black-tie shirts and dressy shirts worn with boardroom pinstriped suits. But broadcloth shirts can also be paired with sweaters, especially ones with a flat, smooth texture, such as fine merino wool, cotton or cashmere.

PINPOINT OXFORD

A pinpoint Oxford cloth is a tightly woven fabric, similar to classic Oxford cloth, but a finer, closer weave and, therefore, dressier. Basic Oxford cloth has a tiny basket-weave texture. You might need a magnifying glass to see any texture in the weave of the pinpoint; it is almost as smooth as broadcloth. Pinpoint is found in high-quality shirts, usually all cotton, bringing the cost up higher than regular Oxford cloth. It is worth the difference.

TATTERSALL

This is a handsome casual shirt pattern that offers a welcome alternative to all the expected sport shirt patterns out there. It is a small, subtle plaid pattern (squares formed by dark colored crossbars on a solid color, usually light or white, background). More unusual than stripes, checks or bold plaids, tattersall shirts work well alone or can be paired with solid-color sweaters or blazers. This masculine pattern comes in a variety of attractive color combinations. It is perfect with khakis, but not too casual to wear with dress pants.

PLACKET

The double layers of fabric that hold the buttons and buttonholes in a shirt are called a placket. Plackets can be found at the neckline of a shirt, down the front of the shirt, and at the cuff of a sleeve.

SHIRTTAIL HEM

As you can imagine, this is a rounded shirt hem where the bottom of the shirt comes up on both sides, rather than going straight across all around. It is designed to help keep the shirt tucked in. In my opinion, if you are the kind of guy who insists on wearing your shirts untucked, the better (neater) choice is a shirt with a straight, jacketlike hem.

FOUR-IN-HAND

Four-in-hand has two meanings, both related to neckties. One is merely the term for a long tie, as opposed to a bow tie. The other, more common meaning is a very specific type of necktie knot. It is an elongated knot that is narrower, less bulky, and less dressy than the Windsor or half-Windsor knot. Favored by traditional and preppy dressers, this versatile knot is often the most appropriate one to wear, especially with less formal button-down collar shirts and sweaters.

Send male fashion queries to:

lois.fenton@prodigy.net