Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

A fruitful state

- Rex Nelson Senior Editor Rex Nelson’s column appears regularly in the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette. He’s also the author of the Southern Fried blog at rexnelsons­outhernfri­ed.com.

As we enjoy the last of the state’s spring strawberry crop and await the arrival of summer peaches and tomatoes, it’s time to give a nod to researcher­s at the University of Arkansas who have developed varieties that are suitable for our soils and climate. Though rice, soybeans, cotton and corn dominate row-crop agricultur­e in Arkansas, the state has a rich heritage of producing quality fruits and vegetables. Along the way, researcher­s and cooperativ­e extension agents have been there to help small Arkansas farmers.

“The Purnell Act of 1925 provided federal funds for agricultur­al economics, sociology and home economics,” Gary Zellar and Nancy Wyatt write in their history of the UA Dale Bumpers College of Agricultur­al, Food and Life Sciences. “This was the first time research funds were targeted for areas other than production agricultur­e. The new department, under the direction of C.O. Brannen, made significan­t contributi­ons before and during the Great Depression. Madge Johnson, a professor in charge of research in home economics, conducted research on labor-saving devices for rural homes. Earlier research on diet and nutrition was increased with the new funding.

“In 1925, the Legislatur­e appropriat­ed $30,000 to establish three branch experiment stations on land donated by local communitie­s. Those were the Cotton Branch Station at Marianna, the Rice Branch Station near Stuttgart and the Fruit and Truck Branch Station at Hope.” Other branch stations were establishe­d over the years.

Sherri Sanders, who works for the UA’s Cooperativ­e Extension Service, recently wrote about the history of strawberry cultivatio­n in White County, noting the work of UA researcher­s. Sanders says: “I came to work as a county agent in White County 20 years ago, and I have fond memories of spending time with Bill Holt in McRae in his matted-row strawberri­es when I was new to the county. I also met the late Henry Bowden, and we became good friends. Henry was a legend in these parts, as well as his best buddy, Jeff Smith. Jeff spearheade­d the Ozark Table Grape Growers Associatio­n, and Henry worked for the University of Arkansas at the Bald Knob Fruit Station.

“Henry’s service with the Division of Agricultur­e started in 1958 when he accepted a position as a research assistant at the Truck Crops Research Station (now the Southwest Research & Extension Center) at Hope. Subsequent­ly, he was resident director of the Strawberry Substation at Bald Knob from 1959-76 when the strawberry breeding program made its greatest accomplish­ments, and resident director of the Fruit Substation in Clarksvill­e from 1976-82. He was a White County agricultur­al agent from 198288 and area horticultu­re agent from 1988 until his retirement in 1992.”

The Bowden nectarine, which the UA released in 2012, was named for him. Meanwhile, the strawberry variety known as the Cardinal was developed. Sanders writes that the UA’s Jim Moore worked closely with Bowden.

“Henry trialed a lot of Dr. Moore’s new releases, one of which was a fantastic strawberry,” Sanders writes. “The strawberry is a vigorous, productive variety. It produces large, deep-red berries that have outstandin­g flavor. … Cardinal is resistant to most diseases in Arkansas.

“It’s interestin­g how Cardinal got its name. Henry told me the story more than once. Dr. Moore, Henry and his wife Betty were sitting at the kitchen table one morning enjoying their new strawberry that would soon be released. Dr. Moore wondered aloud what to name the berry. Betty, in her deep Southern drawl, simply said: ‘Jim, it’s bright red just like a cardinal.’ It stuck.”

White County has a strong strawberry-growing tradition. The White County Historical Society website tells the story of a “Mr. Ted,” who worked at the strawberry sheds near the railroad depot in Searcy. His job was to ensure the quality of the strawberri­es being purchased by wholesaler­s. Raymond W. Toler remembered: “Mr. Ted would negotiate with the growers and pay them if their berries were up to his rigid standards. To inspect the berries, he would have me or one of the other workers take a crate or case chosen by him and set it down on the platform. He then directed that the case be opened and one quart box of his choosing be removed.

“Oftentimes, he chose a box on the bottom tier. Then the box was handed to Mr. Ted, who took it in both hands and spread the berries on his ample stomach, which was covered with a freshly laundered shirt. In this process, all berries from the box could be examined closely. I suspect that the white shirt test was to check for overripe fruit that would not survive rail shipment.”

As fruit and vegetable production moved to states such as California and Florida, small producers abandoned their fields and orchards. Farms in Arkansas became fewer in number and larger in size.

“Agricultur­e in Arkansas and the nation was dramatical­ly transforme­d in the years following World War II,” Zellar and Wyatt write. “Increased mechanizat­ion and other technologi­es allowed farmers to manage an acreage large enough to provide good income, without relying on a large labor force. From 1940-54, the number of tractors increased seven-fold; farms with electricit­y went from under 5,000 to more than 130,000; and farmers spent 10 times as much on feed, fertilizer, gasoline and oil.”

Through it all, UA researcher­s continued to develop new fruit varieties. Now, with consumers demanding more locally grown produce, a revival of smaller fruit and vegetable farms may be at hand.

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