A list of men’s shoes and what to wear with them

Q

My husband does not seem to understand that wearing a pair of dress shoes with jeans and a pullover is not dressedup for a night out and that wearing work boots with a suit is inappropriate or just ridiculous. Can you explain to him that shoes matter, and why these are wrong (or about the ways to leave your lover!)?

A

You are certainly correct when you say that shoes matter. They affect a man’s overall appearance. In the past, when I have been asked what categories of clothing tell the most about a man’s taste, my response has always been, “… his tie, his watch and his shoes.” While being the subtlest of the three, shoes send very clear signals, especially to those who are knowledgeable enough to read their messages.

Perhaps the easiest way to get this across to your husband (and to most men) is with this:

FORMAL

■ SHOE TYPE: Black patent leather “pumps” and plain-toe black lace-ups

WEAR WITH: White-tie and black-tie attire

■ SHOE TYPE: Wingtips

WEAR WITH: Suits, especially dark dressy ones

DRESSY LACE-UPS

■ SHOE TYPE: Plain-toe

WEAR WITH: Suits, blazers, elegant casual wear

■ SHOE TYPE: Cap-toe

WEAR WITH: Less dressy suits, blazers, sport coats

■ SHOE TYPE: Tassel and plain loafers

WEAR WITH: Khaki suits, blazers, sports coats

MEDIUM DRESSY

■ SHOE TYPE: Suede laceups (winter)

WEAR WITH: Medium-dressy wool suits

■ SHOE TYPE: White bucks (warm weather)

WEAR WITH: Seeksucker suits, khaki suits

CASUAL

■ SHOE TYPE: Cowboy boots, desert (Chukka) ankle boots, moccasins

WEAR WITH: Blazers, sports coats, sweaters

VERY CASUAL

■ SHOE TYPE: Deck, sneakers, work boots

WEAR WITH: Khakis, jeans, shirtsleeves, polos

There is a narrow category of men’s shoes that can go in one of two opposite directions; it can either be elegant, or showy and flamboyant, depending on who is wearing it. In old Fred Astaire films, he often wears two-toned wingtip dress shoes, known as “spectators.” On such an elegant dresser — and on dance floors and ’50s-society functions — the look comes across as classic, tasteful and very special (it would be in the “Dressy lace-ups” category). But what looks good on him is not likely to work so well on most others. If a man who does not have great taste or style wears spectators, the image projected is likely to be loud, gaudy and way too much. It could come under a separate category, “Inappropriate.”

No discussion of appropriate shoes is complete without referring to shoe colors. Welldressed men usually wear black shoes with blue or gray suits, dark brown shoes with tan suits, and cordovan color shoes on occasion. These three colors also work with similar-colored somewhat casual clothes. You may veer a little (or a lot) when your clothes are even more casual. As an example, light- and bright-colored moccasins, deck shoes and sneakers can be whimsical and fun when paired with khakis, jeans and shorts. Just as with spectators, wearing colorful shoes is yet one more place where the wearer needs a healthy dose of knowledge and confidence to carry off the look.