Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Beat the heat with a refreshing chenin blanc wine

- SETH ELI BARLOW As always, you can see what I’m drinking on Instagram at @sethebarlo­w and send your wine questions and quibbles to sethebarlo­wwine@gmail.com

If you’re looking for a refreshing (hello, Arkansas heat!) and versatile white wine that won’t break the bank, look no further than chenin blanc. This grape has been grown in France’s Loire Valley for centuries, but it is now found in many other parts of the world, including South Africa (where the grape is known as steen), California (where it was the dominant white grape until the chardonnay craze took hold in the 1970s), and New Zealand.

Chenin blanc is known for its high acidity and fruity flavors, with notes of green apple, apricot and honey. It can be made in a range of styles, from bone-dry to off-dry and even sweet, and it can be still or sparkling. It’s this versatilit­y that makes it such a great wine for pairing with almost anything you might find at the dinner table. My personal go-to is the turkey salad from Arkansas Food Hall of Famer Burge’s Hickory Smoked Turkeys & Ham, but the options are almost endless.

One of the best things about chenin blanc is its value: You can find great bottles of chenin blanc from around the world for less than $20. South Africa is a major player in that price range, and I especially like the Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc ($19). Great examples from the U.S. include a bottling from Field Recordings ($19) and the Wild Wild Sea Chenin Blanc from J. Brix winery. There’s also a great blend of chenin blanc and viognier from Pine Ridge Vineyards that can usually be found for about $15 and is worth every penny.

As I said above, chenin blanc’s home is France’s Loire Valley, especially the villages of Vouvray, Savennière­s and Anjou. I’m especially partial to the wines of Vouvray and visited the quaint community in 2016. One of my favorite Vouvray producers is the Champalou family.

The Champalou family has been making exceptiona­l wines since 1984. Led by Catherine and Didier Champalou, their wines are known for their purity, elegance and balance, with flavors of green apple, quince, pear and honey, and a glimmering minerality. If you’re ready to “level up” your chenin blanc experience, these are the wines to seek out. Their Les Fondraux ($30) bottling is an absolute standout. It’s my go-to when I’m eating Creole classics like étouffée and jambalaya.

If you’re in the mood for something bubbly, try a sparkling Chenin Blanc from South Africa’s Simonsig Estate. The estate’s Kaapse Vonkel Brut ($16) is made in the traditiona­l Champagne method, with secondary fermentati­on in the bottle, and it has flavors of green apple and brioche, with a great texture and a dry finish. You can’t go wrong with it.

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