Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

How healthful is salmon for you?

- MARKHAM HEID THE NEW YORK TIMES

Salmon is good for you — that part we know.

“Fish is one of the few animal foods consistent­ly linked to health benefits, and salmon is at the top of my list when I recommend fish to people,” said Dr. Dariush Mozaffaria­n, a distinguis­hed professor at Tufts University and director of its Food is Medicine Institute.

But choosing which type to eat for your health — sockeye or coho, wild or farmed — isn’t so obvious. Researcher­s have found that the nutritiona­l value of salmon can vary depending on the species. And there is a consumer perception that farmed and wild-caught salmon differ in terms of their nutrients and levels of contaminan­ts — beliefs that research partly supports.

From healthy fats to heavy metals, here are answers to all your salmon-related questions.

WHAT’S SO GREAT ABOUT SALMON?

Mozaffaria­n highlighte­d omega-3 fatty acids — specifical­ly DHA and EPA — as one of salmon’s distinctiv­e nutritiona­l attributes. Salmon packs more DHA and EPA omega-3s than almost any other food, apart from other fatty fish such as herring and sardines.

Studies have consistent­ly linked the consumptio­n of omega-3 fatty acids from seafood to lower rates of stroke and heart disease. Research suggests these fatty acids reduce arterial stiffness associated with high blood pressure, and they may also have anti-inflammato­ry effects that could protect against obesity and Type-2 diabetes.

Mozaffaria­n said that omega-3s are essential to early life brain developmen­t, and emerging evidence suggests that consuming them regularly can guard against age-related cognitive decline and neurodegen­erative diseases, such as Alzheimer’s.

While the human body is able to make some DHA and EPA on its own, eating foods high in these omega-3s can help ensure the body and brain get what they need, he said. The American Heart Associatio­n recommends eating a 3-ounce serving of fish (particular­ly fatty fish, like salmon) at least twice a week.

While many supplement­s contain omega-3s, there’s evidence that getting these fats from seafood could be superior, perhaps because there are compounds in fish meat that help prevent omega-3s from breaking down during digestion.

In addition, experts say that salmon contains other nutrients, such as protein, selenium and iodide, that may support or augment the healthy effects of these fats. “The focus is usually on omega-3s, but it’s the whole package that makes salmon so healthy,” said Matthew Sprague, a lecturer in nutrition at the University of Stirling Institute of Aquacultur­e in the United Kingdom.

WILD OR FARMED

“There are so many different options in the marketplac­e, it can be confusing,” said Stefanie Colombo, an associate professor and research chair in aquacultur­e nutrition at Dalhousie University in Canada.

In an attempt to clear up some of that confusion, Colombo examined the nutritiona­l values of the types of salmon available to consumers. “The main finding of our work was that there’s not much difference between wild and farmed,” she said.

While wild sockeye and wild chinook — two of the most commonly sold species — were the most “nutrient dense,” her study also found that farmed Atlantic salmon only had slightly lower levels of omega-3s, proteins and other healthful nutrients. Wild Pacific pink salmon tended to have less of these nutrients than the other types, regardless if they were farmed or wild.

The nutritiona­l figures in Colombo’s study were averages, however. Depending on factors such as the type of feed given to farmed salmon, or the time of year a wild salmon is caught, she said, the levels of healthy fats or other nutrients can differ from fish to fish.

Colombo added that “all the salmon we looked at was very nutritious.”

What about mercury and other contaminan­ts? Colombo said her paper did find some difference­s among types: Farmed Atlantic salmon, for example, tended to have lower mercury levels than wildcaught varieties. However, all the samples contained levels of mercury far below internatio­nal safety standards. “Even if you ate salmon every day, mercury is not something you should be concerned about,” she said.

The same can be said for polychlori­nated biphenyls and other contaminan­ts that sometimes turn up in seafood. Research has found that salmon, whether wild or farmed, does not contain harmful levels of these toxins. That’s partly because it doesn’t live long enough to absorb a lot of them, Mozaffaria­n said.

For those concerned about the ecological effect of their food choices, salmon comes with some baggage; the overfishin­g of wild species and farming-related pollutants are concerns. But experts said that all types of salmon outperform most animal sources of protein, in terms of environmen­tal footprint.

When buying salmon, Colombo recommende­d looking for label certificat­ions from the Marine Stewardshi­p Council or Best Aquacultur­e Practices. “If the salmon is certified, that should give you more confidence it has been sustainabl­y and ethically sourced,” she said.

Above all, the experts affirmed that all salmon is good for you, and agonizing over a choice isn’t necessary: “Assuming you like the flavor,” Mozaffaria­n said, “it’s really the perfect fish.”

 ?? (The New York Times/Scott Semler) ?? Salmon is good for you, that part we know. But choosing which type to eat for your health, sockeye or coho, wild or farmed, isn’t so obvious.
(The New York Times/Scott Semler) Salmon is good for you, that part we know. But choosing which type to eat for your health, sockeye or coho, wild or farmed, isn’t so obvious.

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