Arts and Crafts Homes - - OUTSIDE -

BRICK Pavers or hard-fired bricks look good and last in al­most any tra­di­tional gar­den. Brick col­lects moss in damp ar­eas and may be­come slip­pery.

CAST IRON Or­na­men­tal edg­ing is au­then­tic; de­pend­ing on height, it can be a low bor­der or a short fence. The ox­i­dized fin­ish is fairly sta­ble.

CON­CRETE Ex­tremely durable con­crete can be made in nearly any color and poured into just about any de­sign you want. You can also use pre-cast con­crete bricks, “stones,” and tiles. It’s very hard to re­move poured con­crete edg­ing if you later change your gar­den’s de­sign or lay­out.

M E TA L It’s not ob­tru­sive and it’s easy to bend and curve, but metal edg­ing is hard to han­dle, and it rusts.

PLAS­TIC Af­ford­able, flex­i­ble, and easy to in­stall, plas­tic edg­ing is not his­tor­i­cal. It should be buried well and is best for long runs and curves, es­pe­cially in the back of the gar­den (not up close).

STONE One of the more ver­sa­tile edg­ing ma­te­ri­als (both nat­u­ral shape and tooled, as in cob­bles), stone can be care­fully set in mor­tar or ar­tis­ti­cally com­bined with peb­bles or gravel and other ma­te­ri­als for a cus­tom look.

TILE English rope-edged tiles are the most his­tor­i­cally ac­cu­rate, but to­day they are pricey.

WAT­TLE A his­tor­i­cal edg­ing in which saplings of pli­able wood such as wil­low are wo­ven into a band; wat­tle works well for hold­ing back deep mulch.

WOOD Af­ford­able and easy to work with (but good only for straight lines), wood adds an in­for­mal, or­ganic look. Wood edg­ing will last about 10 years (pres­sured-treated pine is best, to counter in­sects and rot).

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