Austin American-Statesman

Uchiko veterans open intimate sushi restaurant Craft Omakase

- Matthew Odam

Several Uchiko employees with more than 30 years of experience at Austin’s grandest sushi destinatio­n are opening their own sushi restaurant in the shadow of the place where they all worked together.

Craft Omakase opens Wednesday at 4400 N. Lamar Blvd., Suite 102 in the space that was home to the Steeping Room for years. But unlike the place where the team spent its formative years, Craft is a small, 12-seat omakaseonl­y experience.

The sushi counter restaurant is the creation of Charlie Wang and Nguyen Nguyen, both former executive sushi chefs at Uchiko, and long-time front-ofhouse presence Tim Boyer. They are joined in the project by general manager Juliana Fry, whom Austin dining and cocktail lovers will remember from her time at East Side Showroom and her stint as bar manager at Kemuri Tatsu-Ya from its opening until last year.

The restaurant will serve 20-course meals that include nigiri bites and composed dishes. The nigiri is meant to focus and highlight the flavor of the fish, a process that is amplified through a process of in-house dry aging. The composed dishes, like sea trout roulade surroundin­g shrimp mousse with truffle and seasonal greens resting in shrimp bisque, have “more overt complexity of flavor and intense preparatio­n,” Fry told the American-Statesman.

“We also really want to provide the best examples of some more traditiona­l preparatio­ns in dishes like our winter vegetable with soy-braised daikon and shiitake with a genmaicha broth,” Fry said. “We’ve found a lot of balance

there, trying to showcase technique and attention to detail without taking away from the ingredient­s themselves, even in dishes that naturally have more components. Our dishes really don’t include anything unless it’s meaningful to the experience of enjoying them.”

Craft Omakase is open WednesdayS­unday, with seatings at 6 and 8:30 p.m. Prepaid reservatio­ns on Tock cost $175 per person before beverage service, which include wine, sake and beer. Reservatio­ns are released each Sunday for the following week.

 ?? CRAFT OMAKASE PROVIDED BY ?? Craft Omakase occupies an intimate space at 4400 N. Lamar Blvd.
CRAFT OMAKASE PROVIDED BY Craft Omakase occupies an intimate space at 4400 N. Lamar Blvd.
 ?? CRAFT OMAKASE PROVIDED BY ?? Craft Omakase occupies an intimate space at 4400 N. Lamar Blvd.
CRAFT OMAKASE PROVIDED BY Craft Omakase occupies an intimate space at 4400 N. Lamar Blvd.
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