Walking leads to discovery for Potvin
Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia and once a nearly desolate ghost town, is one of the big surprises of my recent travels.
Its compact “old town” bursts with colorfully restored facades, lively outdoor cafes and swanky boutiques. The ramshackle industrial quarter to the east is rapidly being redeveloped into a forest of skyscrapers. The hilltop castle gleams from a recent facelift. And even the glum communist-era suburb of Petrzalka has undergone a Technicolor makeover.
It’s arguably the fastestchanging city in Europe.
Sitting quietly in the very center of central Europe, wedged between bigger and stronger nations (Hungary, Austria, the Czech Republic and Poland), Slovakia was brutally disfigured by the communists, then overshadowed by the Czechs. But in recent years, this fledgling republic has found its wings. Locals brag that the region around Bratislava has the hottest economy and highest per capita income of any region in the former Communist bloc.
Bratislava has also forged a twin-city alliance for trade and commerce with Vienna — which is less than an hour’s train ride away and whose lights you can sometimes see from here — making this truly the nexus of central Europe.
Many Bratislavans fancy themselves the yang to Vienna’s yin: If Vienna is a staid, elderly aristocrat sipping coffee, then Bratislava is a vivacious young professional jet-setting
Actor Nathaniel Potvin is just 19, but he’s juggling multiple projects like a pro. Besides the Netflix series “American Vandal” and “Alexa and Katie,” his recent credits include Disney XD’s “Mech-X4” and Facebook Watch’s “Five Points” (executive produced by Kerry Washington), which has been renewed for a second season.
An avid traveler, Potvin says he has fallen in love with New York City.
“As of right now, New York is my favorite vacation destination,” says the Los Angeles resident.
Q. What do you recommend people check out in New York?
A. Go to Levain Bakery on the Upper West Side. Best cookies I have ever had in my life. Second, I would tell them to go visit the Museum of Modern Art, which has a beautiful collection that is unforgettable. New York City is my favorite now, but it is likely bound to change as I travel more.
Q. What was the first trip you took as a child?
A. I think my first trip I took as a child was to New Orleans, Louisiana. When I was there, I hated it. As my mom describes it, I was sick with an ear infection. How could you not hate that? But I recently went back and loved it. It is truly an amazing town full of good food and the best jazz.
Q. What’s the most important thing you’ve learned from your travels? around Europe. Bratislava at night is a lively place, thanks in part to tens of thousands of university students.
Though lacking blockbuster sights (you could easily have a great day here without paying a single admission fee), Bratislava is made for strolling. If you have just a few hours to spend, head straight to the old town and wander its mostly traffic-free streets, finishing with one or more of the city’s fine viewpoints.
Ascend to the “UFO” observation deck atop a funky bridge or hike up to the castle for the views. With more time, stroll along the Danube riverbank to the thriving, modern Eurovea development — essentially a riverside park with luxury condos and a modern shopping mall. Enjoying a drink in one of its chic outdoor lounges, you’ll get a glimpse of where Slova kia is
QA. Walking from destination to destination is better than taking transportation, because while you are walking, you can discover more interesting spots you would like to try.
Q. Where are your favorite weekend getaways?
A. Mammoth Ski Resort. I love the snow and skiing, even though I’m a novice. I always love the chance to get better and go on harder runs, while my friends and family laugh at my falling.
Q. Where would you like to go that you have never been before?
A. I would love to go all over Italy just for the food. I fancy myself an amateur chef, so I would love to go and watch the Italian grandparents cook the food.
Q. What untapped destination should people know about?
A. I think more people should know about Portland. Some of the best cuisine I have eaten is up in Portland.
Q. What is your best and/or worst vacation memory?
A. My best vacation memory is getting to ice skate at the 30 Rock ice heading.
From the end of World War II until the fall of communism in 1989, Bratislava was a damaged husk. The communist regime had no respect for the town’s heritage, selling off its medieval cobblestones to cute German towns rebuilding after the war. Locals avoided this stripped-down, desolate corner of the city, preferring to spend time in the Petrzalka suburb across the river.
With the collapse of the communist regime, the new government began returning buildings to their original owners and, over time, the city made the old town traffic-free, spruced up public buildings and encouraged private owners to restore their buildings as well. In the last decade, life has returned with a vengeance and Bratislava’s oldtown charm is on full display.
Most visitors first encounter this charm via St. skating rink in New York City right before New Year’s Eve. My worst vacation memory is going to Disneyland on my birthday and then getting sick with the flu as soon as we got there. My older brothers got to go have fun with my pops while I was watching “The Hulk.”
Q. Where have you traveled that most reminded you of home?
A. Vancouver. I know it gets cold and snowy up there, but I had to live there for close to a year while I was shooting a show. I found parts of it — and some of the people — reminded me of Los Angeles.
Q. When you go away, what are some of your must-have items?
A. I must have a backpack, phone charger, my computer, books I’m reading, sunglasses and my hydro flask.
Q. What is your guilty pleasure when you’re on the road?
A. I love going to art museums. I feel bad for whoever is with me, because I am always dragging them along for hours. Michael’s Gate, which is topped by the last surviving tower of the medieval city walls. It leads to the delightful Michalska Street, a symbol of how far the city has come. The town’s modest main square, Hlavne Namestie, feels too petite for a national capital.
Its style is a mishmash — every building around it seems to date from a different architectural period. Elsewhere in the old town, you’ll find the Old Market Hall dating to 1910, now a busy community center that hosts concerts and a Saturday market. Laurinska Street is Bratislava’s fashion drag, lined with fun-tobrowse boutiques.
Look out for the many whimsical statues that dot the old town. Most date from the late 1990s, when city leaders wanted to entice locals back into the newly prettied-up and fun-loving center.
The imposing Bratislava Castle is the city’s most prominent landmark. Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa transformed the castle in the 18th century from a military fortress to a royal residence. Big and iconic as it is, frankly it’s dull up close — and the exhibits inside are not too exciting. Still, it’s almost obligatory to head up for the views. A recent renovation has breathed life into the castle, which is surrounded by a delightful public park.
Spanning the nearby river is the huge flyingsaucer-capped SNP Bridge, the communists’ pride and joy. (“SNP” is shorthand for the 1944 Slovak National Uprising against the Nazis, a common focus of communist remembrance.) Locals aren’t crazy about this structure — not only for the questionable Starship Enterprise design but also because of the oppressive regime it represented. However, it’s been reclaimed by capitalists, and the restaurant and observation deck have been renovated into a posh eatery called “UFO.”
I admit that Bratislava used to leave me cold. But changes over the last two decades have transformed it into a delightful destination. Bratislava’s energy is inspiring.
Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.