Oys­ter

Baltimore Sun Sunday - - LIFE -

ters on the walls. Hip-hop blasts on the speak­ers. Af­ter or­der­ing from the cashier, you can take your or­der to go or sit at one of a few ta­bles avail­able. Board games like Jenga are avail­able to pass the time while you wait.

Must-tries: For some of us, it’s a point of pride to eat oys­ters with­out any adorn­ment. But don’t let that stand in the way of try­ing items like the de­li­cious, grilled “BBC” oys­ters, topped with ba­con, bar­be­cue and ched­dar.

We also en­joyed the crunchy fried oys­ter tacos ($16.50), packed to the gills with oys­ter meat and topped off with honey cilantro slaw, and a side of chicken wings ($11) sea­soned with honey and

Old Bay.

Spe­cial touches: The Ur­ban Oys­ter seems des­tined to be­come a hap­pen­ing happy hour spot. Af­ter-hours din­ers can choose from an ar­ray of cock­tails, in­clud­ing a pineap­ple daiquiri made with pineap­ple liqueur ($10). Wednesday evenings are buck-ashuck nights, when cus­tomers can buy raw oys­ters for just $1. From Thurs­days through Satur­day evenings, the menu of­fers two dif­fer­ent steamed seafood pots, such as the $30 Level Up, made with snow crab and lob­ster tail.

Pro tip: The oys­ters may be de­signed for the masses, but they’re still oys­ters. They’re not cheap. The one en­tree-sized salad on the menu is $21.50. It’s a good value; for that price, you get a crab ball and a salmon filet sur­rounded by jerk shrimp and Parme­san crisps, all on top of your let­tuce. Still, regulars may wish for some more eco­nom­i­cal op­tions. My din­ing com­pan­ion and I had no prob­lem spend­ing nearly $100 for lunch, in­clud­ing tax and tip.

The bottom line: At this creative new ven­ture, oys­ter fans can whet their ap­petites, and oys­ter naysay­ers may be con­verted into fans.

1704 Whet­stone Way, Lo­cust Point. 443-948-5898. theur­banoys­ter.com. Serv­ing lunch

CHRISTINA TKACIK/BAL­TI­MORE SUN

Ur­ban Oys­ter was a farm­ers' mar­ket stand be­fore it opened its brickand-mor­tar restau­rant in the McHenry Row com­plex in Lo­cust Point.

JERRY JACK­SON/BAL­TI­MORE SUN

Ur­ban Oys­ter's seafood salad comes with a crab ball, a salmon filet, Ja­maican grilled shrimp and Parme­san crisps.

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