At Keystone Korner, jazz and food, reincarnated
Despite its modern furnishings, the Keystone Korner feels less like an entirely new restaurant in Harbor East and more like a reincarnation.
In some ways, it is. The restaurant is named after an earlier Keystone Korner in San Francisco, and is co-owned by that club’s founder, jazz producer Todd Barkan, who teamed up with Michelin-starred chef Robert Wiedmaier to bring it back to life. “This is the East Coast revival of that club,” Barkan said.
But the new Keystone Korner also captures this city’s historic jazz scene, hearkening back to the lost era when Billie Holiday and Ethel Ennis performed at West Baltimore’s various clubs. Audiences may be reminded of the legendary Red Fox Lounge or the Comedy Club on Pennsylvania Ave. “It’s very much rekindling the flame of the West Baltimore Left Bank Jazz Society,” Barkan said.
The association isn’t lost on performers, like jazz pianist Cyrus Chestnut, who recently performed at the venue.
“What was west has come east,” he told the audience, sipping drinks contentedly. “Tell your friends: There’s a new spot in town.”
First impressions: Diners are asked not to speak during the performance, and the focus is largely on what is happening onstage. But don’t be fooled: some of the best performances are happening on the plate. Wiedmaier cooks up modern interpretations of unabashedly nostalgic dishes like deviled eggs, ribs and chicken, a visceral reminder of the good old days.
Must-tries: The menu is comfort food, pure, but not exactly simple. Deviled eggs