Lots to love in Lubbock

West Texas town with a cowboy past has plenty of great places to chow down

LUBBOCK, Texas — Lubbock is a long way from anywhere, and even in this West Texas town with a population of just over a quarter-million, because of its remoteness it still somehow feels uncrowded, maybe a little lonesome.

Its closest neighbors of any size are a two- to three-hour drive away, give or take. Amarillo is to the north, Midland and Odessa to the south, Abilene’s to the southeast, and Roswell, over the state line in New Mexico, lies to the west. There’s not much between those cities except the dusty prairies and grasslands of the Great Plains. Solitude is the soul of the Great Plains of West Texas, a way of life, and no one in Lubbock seems to mind that the town stands alone.

Long, flat roads lead to longer stretches of open, flat plains that eroded from the Rocky Mountains eternities ago. Lubbock, with its elevation reaching to some 3,400 feet, sits high atop caprock tableland that tapers slowly to the southeast toward Fort Worth and Dallas. This is a land of caprock, cowpokes and unending fields of cotton, a crop that loves the merciless sun of its semiarid climate.

It’s that combination of sun, wind and probably not quite enough rain that makes the region ideal for not only cotton, but also growing grapes, as in Texas wine grapes, as in Texas wine, as in mighty fine Texas wine.

With three full days in Lubbock to spend time with extended family and see the sites, my husband and I visited several wineries and ate at some killer restaurants, diners and coffee shops. And while Lubbock may well be off the beaten path, it doesn’t scrimp on things to do.

Wonderful wine

Door Bistro and Wine Room, just a few minutes’ drive from Texas Tech, that offers fondue — gruyere, pepper jack and gouda are among the offerings — that are the perfect accompaniment for American and international entrees from the land and sea. Wine sampling via technological tasting machines gives this restaurant a unique edge, plus it has more than 4,000 bottles of wine from 650 labels, some of which are stored in a two-story wine tower.

With a focus toward fresh and local, the menu at downtown’s West Table Kitchen and Bar changes daily, but expect some sort of moo, cluck, swish or oink, including ribeye, duck, trout or pork chop.

We also tried La Diosa, where owners Sylvia and Kim McPherson have mixed vibrant decor with subtle lighting and bold tapas. If none of these suits your tastes, Cocina de La Sirena, a Latin American restaurant, serves traditional fare of empanadas, enchiladas and flan. It’s also known for its tequilas and margaritas.

What to do

EVIE MAE’S PIT BARBEQUE Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque serves flavor-packed brisket, barbecue and sausage flavored with green chile.

MARY ANN ANDERSON/TNS The Lubbock region provides roughly 90 percent of wine grapes to Texas wineries. Several wineries, including Levelland’s Burklee Hill Vineyards-Trilogy Cellars, have tasting rooms.

MARY ANN ANDERSON/TNS Lubbock’s Cast Iron Grill is known throughout the city for its pies, including the extremely popular Texas Delight, a concoction of cream cheese, chocolate pudding and pecans.

MARY ANN ANDERSON/TNS Teresa Stephens owns Lubbock’s Cast Iron Grill, a hometown restaurant known for its arsenal of pies and Texas-big country breakfasts and lunches.

MARY ANN ANDERSON/TNS Arnis Robbins of Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque cooks the brisket for more than 16 hours. On some days, they sell out of brisket before mid-afternoon.