John Brown Gen­eral & Butch­ery worth the trip

Baltimore Sun Sunday - - REAL ESTATE - By Christina Tkacik

A drive up Falls Road can prompt re­flec­tion on the area’s past. The route that stretches from Bal­ti­more north to near the Penn­syl­va­nia border be­gan as an In­dian trail; later, horse-drawn carts trav­eled it to and from Bal­ti­more’s mar­kets. Nearby, pic­turesque Ore­gon Ridge Park was a bustling quarry; the ori­gin of the mar­ble for the city’s fa­mous white steps.

The John Brown Gen­eral & Butch­ery, a restau­rant and butcher shop on Falls Road in Cock­eysville, draws on the area’s his­tory and its agri­cul­tural rich­ness. It also serves one of the best chicken sand­wiches for miles.

Owner Robert Voss, a Monk­ton na­tive who worked in New York for sev­eral years, built the shop in­side a for­mer gen­eral store. The place fills up at lunchtime with a unique mix of artist types, fam­i­lies and men in trucks. Food, Voss points out, has a way of bring­ing peo­ple to­gether.

First im­pres­sions: The front of the build­ing, for­merly John Brown’s coun­try store, to­day holds a cap­ti­vat­ing se­lec­tion of freshly butchered meats, per­haps with some lo­cal rab­bits and quail. This isn’t the place to take your fa­vorite veg­e­tar­ian; at any given mo­ment, the hip-look­ing crew may be break­ing down a cow. The rear din­ing room, in Brown’s for­mer liv­ing

AMY DAVIS/BAL­TI­MORE SUN

The butcher counter fills half of the gen­eral store at John Brown Gen­eral & Butch­ery.

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