John Brown General & Butchery worth the trip
A drive up Falls Road can prompt reflection on the area’s past. The route that stretches from Baltimore north to near the Pennsylvania border began as an Indian trail; later, horse-drawn carts traveled it to and from Baltimore’s markets. Nearby, picturesque Oregon Ridge Park was a bustling quarry; the origin of the marble for the city’s famous white steps.
The John Brown General & Butchery, a restaurant and butcher shop on Falls Road in Cockeysville, draws on the area’s history and its agricultural richness. It also serves one of the best chicken sandwiches for miles.
Owner Robert Voss, a Monkton native who worked in New York for several years, built the shop inside a former general store. The place fills up at lunchtime with a unique mix of artist types, families and men in trucks. Food, Voss points out, has a way of bringing people together.
First impressions: The front of the building, formerly John Brown’s country store, today holds a captivating selection of freshly butchered meats, perhaps with some local rabbits and quail. This isn’t the place to take your favorite vegetarian; at any given moment, the hip-looking crew may be breaking down a cow. The rear dining room, in Brown’s former living
The butcher counter fills half of the general store at John Brown General & Butchery.