If you visit…
Sleeping: Gregory Guesthouse, on a quiet street in South Belfast, offers subtle charm in its 15 large, fresh rooms (splurge, www. thegregorybelfast.com). Benedicts Hotel has 32 rooms and a popular bar in a good location (moderate, www.benedictshotel.co.uk).
Eating: Mourne Seafood Bar, run by a marine biologist and a great chef, is my choice for seafood in
Belfast (34 Bank Street, www.mourneseafood.com). Crown Liquor Saloon and Dining Room serves pub fare in an elegant dining room with shareable snugs (46 Great Victoria Street, www.nicholsonspubs .co.uk).
Getting around: You can do most of this flat town on foot.
Tourist information: visitbelfast.com