Baltimore Sun

ELSA PERETTI, 80

- -- Associated Press

Famed Tiffany jewelry designer

NEW YORK — Elsa Peretti, who went from Halston model and Studio 54 regular in the 1960s and ’70s to one of the world’s most famous jewelry designers with timeless, fluid Tiffany & Co. collection­s often inspired by nature, has died. She was 80.

She died Thursday night in her sleep at home in a small village outside Barcelona, Spain, according to a statement from her family office in Zurich and the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation.

Peretti’s sculptural cuff bracelets, bean designs and open-heart pendants are among her most recognizab­le work. She lent her classical aesthetic to functional goods, too, including bowls, magnifying glasses, razors and even a pizza cutter done in sterling silver, a metal she favored and helped popularize as a luxury choice.

Born in Florence, Italy, to wealthy, conservati­ve parents and educated in Rome and Switzerlan­d, Peretti moved to Barcelona in her 20s and began working as a model, where she tapped into a community of artists that included Salvador Dali, according to an August profile in The Wall Street Journal’s magazine. A short time later, she decamped for New York and started modeling for Halston and other top designers, jumping into the art and fashion jet set. It’s then she began to make jewelry, tapping the designers she worked for to incorporat­e her pieces.

It was Halston, a close friend, who introduced her to the highest echelons at Tiffany, an exclusive collaborat­ion that lasted throughout her career.

The outspoken Peretti began designing for Tiffany in 1974. In celebratio­n of the 50th anniversar­y of her signature wrist-hugging Bone Cuff, Tiffany launched fresh versions, including some with stones of turquoise and jade.

Peretti’s more than three dozen collection­s for Tiffany establishe­d her in luxury, but she also understood the need for budget flexibilit­y among consumers. She was behind Tiffany’s Diamonds by the Yard line that began in 1974, based on the idea of spreading out the stones on a simple chain and offering them at a range of price points. Today, the line goes for $325 to $75,000.

She was also a philanthro­pist, establishi­ng her foundation in her father’s honor in 2000. It supports a range of projects, from human and civil rights to medical research and wildlife conservati­on.

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