Baltimore Sun

Stressed South Asian eateries trying local road to recovery

- By Vineeta Deepak

NEW DELHI — Hotels and restaurant­s across South Asia have had to adapt and reimagine dining out since the pandemic ripped through the region, forcing many out of business.

Those that have survived are tapping local sources and going online.

In India, from hole-in-the-wall casual eateries to fine dining, restaurant­s were devastated by lockdowns and virus outbreaks, with millions losing their jobs since COVID-19 hit in early 2020.

In neighborin­g Sri Lanka, where the tourism-driven economy also has been hammered by political upheavals and shortages, the situation remains dire.

Saman Nayananand­a, a food and beverage manager at a hotel chain in the Sri Lankan capital of Colombo, says going local for food sourcing and menu offerings is vital.

The struggle to recover for the nation of 22 million is infinitely tougher given Sri Lanka’s troubles with debt, fuel and food shortages, said the 50-year-old hospitalit­y industry veteran. Across the region, hotels and restaurant­s are finding past business models obsolete. That’s forcing a reset in strategies as investment­s recover to meet rising demand from hungry diners eager to eat out again.

India’s food services market is expected to grow to $79 billion by 2028 from $41 billion in 2022, according to a report by the Francorp and restaurant­india.in. But the sector will still face supply delays or shortages, the report says.

Maneesh Baheti, founder and director of the South Asian Associatio­n for Gastronomy, said that the pandemic has raised awareness about health concerns and food

sourcing, leading the industry to adopt more sustainabl­e practices.

That includes offering dishes made with locally sourced ingredient­s.

Many urban communitie­s are experiment­ing with plant-based diets and growing farm produce on their rooftops and in backyards.

In Sri Lanka and elsewhere in Asia, a wave of COVID-19 infections in China after it recently dropped its pandemic controls has revived worries over the risk of a return to shutdowns and other restrictio­ns. But Nayananand­a says he’s hopeful.

“What is important is to learn to live with what we have in our hands,” he said.

 ?? ERANGA JAYAWARDEN­A/AP 2022 ?? People gather around a street-food vendor in Colombo, Sri Lanka, where the economy has been hammered by political upheavals and shortages.
ERANGA JAYAWARDEN­A/AP 2022 People gather around a street-food vendor in Colombo, Sri Lanka, where the economy has been hammered by political upheavals and shortages.

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