Most sweet doughs, including
brioche and laminated doughs, incorporate sugar and fat (usually egg
or butter) for a tender finished product. By comparison, Zoë’s dough is
considered lean. It has a sturdy structure and the chewy texture you want
in a dinner roll, but it’s missing pastry dough’s delicate tenderness.
Zoë’s solution for tenderizing and sweetening her master dough for
sweet braids? She rolls it out on a surface dusted with sugar.