Warbler capital of the world
A FIRST-TIMER’S TAKE ON THE BIGGEST WEEK IN AMERICAN BIRDING.
There’s nothing quite like spring migration. Flocks of warblers and other winged visitors travel north in waves toward their breeding grounds, donning their most colorful attire. It’s a phenomenon you can easily enjoy from a local park but, as I found out, there are a few places in North America where it’s genuinely mind-blowing. One opportunity is the Biggest Week in American Birding.
The suburbs of Toledo, Ohio, in early May may seem an unlikely spring break destination, but birders in the know, like Kimberly Kaufman, executive director of the Black Swamp Bird Observatory and one of the Biggest Week’s founders, would disagree.
“All the birding stars align for us here in northwest Ohio,” Kimberly explains. “When migratory birds move north in spring, a large expanse of water poses a daunting barrier. Before crossing Lake Erie, small songbirds need to rest and feed to build their energy reserves. As a result, large concentrations of these birds converge on the patches of wooded habitat along our lakeshore in spring.”
The festival is not only a gathering of birds; nearly 90,000 people visit the warbler capital of the world to catch a glimpse of the fliers passing through. I was lucky enough to join in last spring.
Biggest Week Ready
As someone new to the avian world, I started my Biggest Week journey on a Friday afternoon three months before the big migration, with a rather fat stack
INSIDER TIP
If you don’t have a pair of decent bins (what some seasoned birders call binoculars), don’t fret; pairs are available for many of the walking tours. Vendors in Optics Alley also have plenty of binoculars, cameras and gear—and some even have loaner programs to let you try equipment in the field.
of hand-me-down homemade warbler flashcards. They had weathered corners from being passed among fledgling Birds & Blooms editors. At the time it seemed unlikely that I’d see so many wonderful species. But, boy, was I wrong.
After a few months of studying and a long rental car ride through Illinois and Indiana, Birds & Blooms Executive Editor Kirsten Schrader and I reached Black Swamp Bird Observatory, which serves as the festival’s headquarters. We walked through the gift shop to the observation window in the back. After being at the festival for two minutes, I saw a species I’d never seen before: a female and two male rose-breasted grosbeaks. Birders call special sightings like this a “lifer.”
It was thrilling enough for me to turn around and pick up a Biggest Week 10th anniversary T-shirt emblazoned with warblers. Little did I know, it would be one of almost 30 lifers I would see in just three short days.
Getting into the Groove
From the observatory, we wandered to the Magee Marsh Wildlife Area for our first real birding stop, a patch Kimberly considers a must-see.
“There are a number of great birding spots in the area,” Kimberly says, “but the wooded beachfront at Magee Marsh provides prime habitat for migratory birds. The mile-long boardwalk leads through the heart of wooded lakefront habitat, making birding accessible for people with all levels of mobility, while protecting the habitat.”
We drove across low-lying wetland, spotting shorebirds along the way, into the wooded area close to the lake. As we pulled into the narrow gravel parking lot by the beach, white exhibitor tents and trailers with bird graphics were there to greet us—along with groups of birders craning their necks at a bald eagle nest above.
After a quick binocular 101, we strolled under the bird-adorned arch of
the Magee boardwalk sign. Even in the late afternoon, the park was buzzing with ruby-crowned kinglets, palm and yellow-rumped warblers, and nature lovers in canvas vests and armed with telephoto lenses.
There were so many birds that my rudimentary binocular skills almost didn’t matter—wherever I pointed my bins, I saw a bird.
Looking through the lenses, my heart burst out of my chest as I whispered a little too loudly, “Kirsten! I think that’s a black-and-white warbler!”
She easily found the tree I pointed to, lifting her binoculars in the graceful way of an experienced birder, and said, “Oh, yeah. I think so.” It was my first solo bird identification and a moment of pure bliss.
On that walk, I had discovered not only a love for birding outside my small, urban backyard but also how generous, positive and willing to share most of the bird-watching community is.
We shuffled along the boardwalk, meeting people of all ages and birding abilities, all leaning over weathered handrails, mesmerized by a feathered arrival. Someone was always quick to say, “There’s a palm warbler on that branch just above the bush” or “I think that’s an orange-crowned warbler!”
And Kimberly mentions that’s not uncommon. She adds, “During these magical 10 days, people from all over the world come together to celebrate their common love of birds. There’s a joyfulness to the experience and that leaves a lasting impression.”
Eight Hours of Birds
One of the best ways to experience the camaraderie of the festival is a guided field trip. The next morning, we hopped on a van for a trip well before sunrise and headed to Oak Openings Preserve Metropark. Experienced guides led us to hot spots around the park, which spans about 5,000 acres, pointing out birds by sight and song while giving lessons on the intricacies of sparrow and warbler identification. It’s one thing to reference a field guide while out and about, but chatting with lifelong birders is almost like accessing an encyclopedia in real time. It’s by far one of the best ways to improve your skills in the field.
If you’re not ready to commit to an eight-hour birding marathon in chilly, misty May weather, start with a short guided bird walk. Most walks meander at an easy pace and are designed for people new to birding or the region. Then peruse the Birder’s Marketplace for a souvenir or Optics Alley to see the latest gear, or attend a social event like trivia night or Birder Prom.
There’s always a reason to celebrate during Biggest Week, whether you are just starting your birding journey and spot dozens of lifers, or you’re an old pro making a connection with someone who adores birds as much as you do. Either way, before you hit the road, stop at a local favorite, Blackberry Corners, for a slice of homemade pie to accompany the countless memories you’ll take home.
Rachel Maidl would love to attend the Biggest Week again, if only for a chance to see a cerulean warbler.