OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE

Outboards are super-popular these days. Do you know how to maintain your outboard? When it comes to maintenance, knowledge and ability are key. Let’s review.

1. A popular topic today is ethanol fuel. What’s wrong with using ethanol fuel, and what can you do as part of a regular maintenance schedule to mitigate any effects?

A. Nothing’s wrong with ethanol fuel; today’s fuels are clean enough and won’t go stale.

B. There’s nothing wrong with actually using it; letting it sit in fuel lines, injectors or carburetors where it can phase-separate and leave corrosive deposits is the problem. Treat the fuel with fuel conditioner, and be sure to run the outboard long enough to get that treated fuel into the engine.

C. Run all the fuel out of the engine by disconnecting the fuel line and letting the engine run out of fuel.

D. The best bet is to run Rec-90 (non-ethanol) fuel, if it’s available.

E. B and D

2. What should you do to the engine to help keep injectors and combustion chambers clean and free from stale fuel and carbon deposits?

A. Run the engine with Marvel Mystery Oil.

B. Run the engine with Dawn dishwashing detergent.

C. Nothing; you will harm the engine by injecting anything but regular fuel.

D. Inject most of a can of BRP Engine Tuner, Quicksilver Power Tune, Yamaha Ring Free or equivalent into the engine’s intakes while running the engine at a fast-idle speed. Shut down the engine, wait overnight, then start the engine again, and inject the rest of the can into the intakes. This will soften and disperse the hard carbon buildup on pistons, rings, valves, etc.

E. None of the above

3. What should you do to the gear case as annual maintenance, and when should you do it?

A. Nothing, it needs no maintenance.

B. Drain the lubricant, and leave it empty for the winter.

C. Drain the lubricant, checking for water intrusion (milky-appearing lube). If the lube is milky or burnt and black, have the gear case serviced (resealed and/or checked for internal damage) before winter layup. If you can’t have it serviced, at least refill with fresh lube and remember to have it serviced before spring.

D. Clean and wax it, remove the propeller, and grease the prop shaft. Check for and remove any fish-line snarls on the shaft before reinstalling the propeller. Have the propeller serviced and reconditioned if it’s damaged.

E. A and B F. C and D

4. Why should you drain the gear-case lubricant and refill with fresh?

A. Just like your car, it’s time for a lube change.

B. The engine will feel fresher with new lubricant.

C. The old lubricant may have water in it due to a seal leak, and that water will rust gears, shafts and bearings over the winter if left in the gear case.

D. Even if it’s not water-contaminated, the old lubricant will have broken down over time, and it’s lubricating properties are not as they were when new.

E. C and D F. None of the above

5. What about water in the engine’s cooling passages? Won’t it freeze and crack the block when the temperature drops below freezing?

A. You should pump antifreeze through the engine to prevent freezing.

B. Simply tilt the engine all the way down (to the running position) so all the water runs out of the propeller, and it will be fine even in the lowest temperatures.

C. The water in the engine stays warm in the winter because it’s inside.

D. If you have to store it tilted, run the water out first, then tape over the propeller hub so no water gets inside.

E. B and D F. None of the above

6. What should you do to ensure that the engine’s finish remains protected from the elements?

A. Nothing, the factory paint does not need any added protection.

B. Wash thoroughly with fresh water and dish detergent, then add a coat of wax to the entire engine to protect it from UV rays and weathering.

C. Wipe off any hardened grease deposits from grease points (tilt tube, swivel bracket, cowl latches, etc.).

D. B and C

E. None of the above

CAPTAIN’S TEST