Boating

POWER UPGRADES

- —John Tiger

Winter is turning to spring, and with that, the ol’ boat gets uncovered and evaluated. Often thoughts turn to the eternal question: Is it time to repower? With Mercury’s recent announceme­nt of its new 600 hp Verado outboard, boaters’ engines are revving with excitement. Let’s check in with your knowledge about repowering.

1. What are some good steps to prepare your hull for repowering?

A. Take your boat to a local dealer who can assess your hull and transom condition.

B. Sit down and catch your breath after reviewing the new engine prices. C. Review the power and weight of your current engine and compare to new engines.

D. A and C E. None of the above

2. Your current engine is a tired 1975 Mercury 150. Your boat is also a 1975 model, rated for 150. When checking over your boat for repower, what are some considerat­ions?

A. The weight of a new engine vs. your

old engine.

B. Torque and real prop-shaft horsepower of new engines vs. your old 150. (Hint: It’s more!)

C. Value of your boat with the new engine vs. the old engine, and whether it makes sense to repower or buy a new boat.

D. Condition of your boat’s transom, stringers and hull.

E. All of the above

3. Your 2002 center-console is worth about $6,000, according to the NADA and BUC book valuations, with its 2002 Evinrude 200. If you repower with a 2021 Mercury 200 that costs $20,500, what will the approximat­e value of your rig be?

A. $20,500 B. $6,000 C. $26,500 D. Somewhere above $6,000, but nowhere near $26,500

E. None of the above 4. You’ve made a deal with your local Yamaha dealer to repower your 1998 dual-console offshore boat with a new 2021 Yamaha 225 four-stroke. Your dealer recommends upgrading your old steering from the dual-cable mechanical system in the boat now to a high-performanc­e hydraulic system. The upcharge is nearly $2,000, but the dealer says you’ll thank him once you’re back on the water. Do you follow this advice? A. No, that’s too expensive; you can buy it yourself and install it for less.

B. The dual-cable systems are reliable and smooth; stick with what you have. C. Take the advice and have the dealer install it. He’s right. It will be smoother and easier to steer a big outboard at speed.

D. Have the dealer install your system, and ask to retain your old system so you can sell it. Many boaters still look for replacemen­t systems, and you’re likely to make up some of that cost when you sell. E. C and D F. None of the above

5. You’re considerin­g removing the sterndrive engines from your 26-foot deep-V boat and repowering with twin outboards. What are some big concerns you should discuss with experts? A. Proper reinforcem­ent of the transom, perhaps even a new transom that’s tied directly into the stringers below and the deck above. B. Center of gravity (CG) and weight displaceme­nt of the boat with the sterndrive­s versus outboards. C. No worries. Plenty have done this for many decades—it’s an easy and successful swap. D. A and B E. None of the above

6. You’re repowering your boat with a new outboard and considerin­g a setback transom bracket. What are some considerat­ions? A. If you choose a bracket with a large setback, the transom should be reinforced, possibly even rebuilt, to handle the load. B. You will need to experiment with engine height and propellers with the new setback bracket in order to maximize efficiency. C. If your new bracket sets the engine back far enough, you may have to assign different ZIP codes for the outboard and boat when you register them with your state. D. You will likely have to obtain new rigging harnesses, shift-andthrottl­e cables, and steering cables or hydraulic hoses to accommodat­e the added distance between the outboard and transom. E. A, B and D F. All of the above

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