WINTERIZING

Do you winterize your own boat? Do you know how to prep for winter layup? Let’s see what you know.

1. You want to cover your boat for the winter. What is the best way to do it?

A. Buy a shrink-wrap kit, including heat gun and propane tank/hose, and do it yourself. B. Pay a professional to shrink-wrap your boat, paying close attention to support and vents. C. Buy a large tarp from a discount store, make a support for underneath, and cover the boat with the tarp, securing it with bungee cords. D. None of the above

2. What should you do to keep your boat’s plumbing (sink, toilet, washdown systems, etc.) free from water that can freeze and crack hoses and fittings?

A. Follow the boat manufacturer’s plumbing schematic and disconnect hoses and fittings to drain off any water present. Run pink RV/Marine (propylene glycol) antifreeze through all systems, and ensure it comes out the other end of the system you’re draining. B. Run Dawn dishwashing detergent through all pipes and fittings. C. Nothing; you will harm the plumbing if you flush it with anything other than water. D. Blow compressed air through all fittings and hoses to ensure there’s no water left to freeze. E. A and D

3. What should you do to your drive(s) to prepare for winter?

A. Nothing; it needs no maintenance. B. Drain the lubricant, and leave it empty for the winter. C. Repair any damage. Clean and wax it, remove the propeller, and grease the prop shaft. Have the propeller serviced and reconditioned if it’s damaged. If you have through-hub exhaust (through the propeller), ensure drive(s) are tilted all the way down to drain out all water, then cover the prop hub with tape to keep water and critters out. D. Drain the lubricant, checking for water intrusion (milky-appearing lube). If the lube is milky or burnt and black, have the gear case serviced before layup. If you can’t have it serviced, at least refill with fresh lube and remember to have it serviced before spring. E. A and B F. C and D

4. Why should you drain the gear case lubricant and refill with fresh?

A. Just like your car, it’s time for a lube change. B. The engine will feel fresher with new lubricant. C. The old lubricant might have water in it due to a seal leak, and that water will rust gears, shafts and bearings over the winter if left in the gear case. D. If there’s a lot of water in the housing due to a bad seal leak, the water could freeze, expand and crack the housing. E. None of the above F. C and D

5. Should you change the oil in your four-stroke engine or wait until spring?

A. Wait until spring; you’ll have more money then, and the oil will be fresher for the season. B. Change it now, before winter. This way, any contaminants and water will be flushed out of the system, and you’ll have fresh oil in the engine for the winter layup. C. It doesn’t matter. D. Put winter layup oil in the engine, then change it in spring.

6. What about water in the engine’s cooling passages? Won’t it freeze and crack the block when the temperature drops below freezing?

A. Yes. You must drain all water from the engine block and drive unit, and run RV antifreeze through the passages before layup. B. Simply tilt the engine/drive all the way down (to the running position), so all water runs out of the propeller, and it will be fine even in the lowest temperatures. If you have to store the drive tilted, run the water out first, then tape over the propeller hub so no water gets inside. C. The water in the engine stays warm in winter because it’s inside the block. D. None of the above E. A and B

1. B. If you’ve never done this, pay a pro to do it right. A cheap tarp from a discount store might be a temporary solution, but it will flap, rip and collapse if there’s a big storm or lots of snow.

2. A. While D is OK in some situations, pouring propylene glycol (RV/Marine pink) antifreeze through the system will help prevent freezing best.

3. F. C and D are the best to ensure no surprises next season.

4. F. If water is present in the housing, it must be drained, even if the leak is not fixed until spring.

5. B. Change it now so the engine’s innards are sitting in fresh oil over winter.

6. E. A and B are the best combined procedures to ensure the engine and drive won’t be subject to freezing and expanding water/ice over the winter.