Vodka—What’s the Difference?
A blind tasting reveals the truth
Colorless and odorless, vodka is one of the most mixable and popular spirits on any bar shelf. Simple yet complex, it’s also a cash cow with more than 66 million cases a year sold in the United States alone. Most often made from distilled fermented grains and filtered water, vodka can also be made from potatoes, fruit and rice. Distilling and filtration methods, along with the quality and type of ingredients, give a vodka its personal flavor profile.
Many vodka lovers are vehemently brand loyal, castigating labels they perceive to be nothing short of scorching ethanol. But can they really tell the difference?
I put that question to the test with a blind vodka tasting. The bottles we tested were scraped bare and obscured in brown paper bags. The eager panel of eight, ranging from bar professionals and vodka enthusiasts to everyday consumers of spirits, gathered at Twisted Vine Bistro’s new Barrel Room in downtown Fort Myers.
With the help of bartender Damon Cockerton, we poured the first round neat and at room temperature. Each was then tasted on the rocks. No mixers allowed. The results were surprising to some; most could not identify their favorite.
The seven selections came from around the world. Most were wheat based; one contained potato and one corn.
Chopin Vodka ($25), produced in Poland, is made from potatoes. Distilled four times, it smelled and tasted a bit industrial, funky and peppery. This was the least favorite for drinking in a martini or straight up. Use it for a Bloody Mary.
Tito’s ($20) is one of the most popular t op-shelf vodkas, for, as one pr ofessional put it , “offering a filet mignon at a pot roast price.” Hailing from Texas, Tito’s is made from corn, distilled six times and made in a process similar to single-malt scotch. Its taste was spicy and a bit hot , with just a hint of sweetness. Ice smoothed it out some while maintaining its complexity. Even so, Tito’s landed between
MANY VODKA LOVERS ARE VEHEMENTLY BRAND LOYAL, CASTIGATING LABELS THEY PERCEIVE TO BE NOTHING SHORT OF SCORCHING ETHANOL. BUT CAN THEY REALLY TELL THE DIFFERENCE?
four and five in the tasting pack. It took the prize for best use in a vodka/soda cocktail.
As for the wheat varieties, Perfect ($25) is five times continuously distilled. Its wheat is grown in limestone soil in France, and its water is taken from the Vosges Mountains, famous for its mineral qualities. At room temperature, Perfect was described as “tropical medicine” with a strong smell, vanilla on the palate and a hot strong finish. The flavors evened out with ice, and while still spic y, this vodka became refreshing for some. Perfect was pleasing but fell behind the next two, which tied for third place.
From Sweden, Absolut ($20) has been around for nearly 40 years. Made from winter wheat and water from a deep well in Ahus, Absolut is distilled continuously until, its makers say, it feels right. This popular brand tasted a bit floral and sweet to some. Comments included: licorice, coconut water, creamy and tropical, nice mouth feel, a pleasant bite on the finish. Yes to a martini and yes to mixing.
To hold a vodka tasting without a Russian entry would be a travesty, and Stolichnaya ($20), affectionately known as Stoli, showed well. It’s distilled three times and filtered four, through quartz sand and birchwood charcoal. The wood flavor was apparent, offering both sweetness and spice. On the rocks, Stoli developed citrus and sweet fruit characteristics, with creaminess and heat.
It was the creamy body of Grey Goose ($30) that elevated this respected label near the top. Distilled once, Goose is made with winter wheat and spring water that’s naturally filtered through limestone. Whether neat or on the rocks, it remained smooth yet substantial, with a lingering, spicy finish. Thumbs up all the way around for enjoying this one solo, no heavy mixers to hide its subtleties.
The overall favorite was Sïku ($30). When ice naturally falls from the Qalerallit Sermia glacier in Greenland, it begins an elaborate journey to the Netherlands. The ice never melts but is stirred with alcohol, becoming liquid at -25 degrees Celsius. Distilled five times, Sïku, all agreed, was silky smooth with no burn or bite, a bit herbal, sweet and oh so clean. It would be a shame to mix it with anything. Cheers! Gina Birch is a regular contributor, a lover of good food and drink, and a well-known media personality in Southwest Florida.