HOUSE OF WINSOR
Historic Duxbury inn inspired by early y American fare
The Winsor House Inn in coastal Duxbury offers a slice of American history in a patriotic community, while serving locally sourced dishes inspired by the New England waterfront.
It makes the cozy restaurant an ideal place to celebrate regional cuisine surrounded by ghosts of early America: The Winsor family settled Duxbury in the 1600s. They built the Winsor House in 1803.
“The Fourth of July is a huge holiday here in Duxbury,” said Winsor House Inn owner Chuck Weilbrenner. “The parade goes right down Washington Street in front of us. All the homes are decorated. There are lawn parties, barbecuing, eating, drinking. It's very much a Norman Rockwell experience.”
Weilbrenner and his wife, Holly Safford (she also owns The Catered Affair), purchased the Winsor House early last year. They enlisted the aid of the Duxbury community to give the local landmark an extensive makeover. Nearly 500 benefactors donated $247,000 toward the reconstruction. Their names are listed on a plaque near the entrance.
Skip Bennett, the founder of Duxbury's famous Island Creek Oysters, is one of those donors. The restaurant reopened a year ago this week.
“Our menu is big on local and organic products,” said executive chef Franco Carubia, who previously served as chef de cuisine at the Boston Public Library's Courtyard Restaurant. “Being so close to the water we get the best fish and the best seafood. And especially being in Duxbury, you get the best oysters.”
Carubia gives the flavors of old New England an upscale, modern interpretation. Try the day-boat butter-crusted cod with ragout of wild Maine mussels and leeks; the seared scallops with pickled squash blossoms; or the parmesan-and-herb-crusted Atlantic salmon.
The theme of upscale Americana is common these days in the Greater Boston dining scene, most notably at such places as Puritan & Co., Alden & Harlow and Commonwealth, all of them in Cambridge.
Puritan & Co. chef-owner Will Gilson is at the forefront of the movement. He's a 13th generation Bay Stater who traces his roots back to nine settlers on the Mayflower.
His regional classics include New England clam chowder with Wellfleet littlenecks; anadama bread, a traditional New England staple made with cornmeal and molasses; and Boston cream pie.
“It's a modern approach to historical ingredients and a style of food that's synonymous with New England,” said Gilson. “We want to make sure it never feels old, dusty or antiquated."
(Winsor House Inn, 390 Washington St., Duxbury, 781-934-0991, wwinsorhouseinn.com; Puritan & Co., 1166 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-615-6195, www.puritancambridge.com
PURITAN & CO. GREEN GARLIC CHOWDER WITH LITTLENECK CLAMS
1 1/4 lb. canned clams, minced, juices reserved
2-3 c. bottled clam juice
2 bacon slices, minced
1 onion, diced
2 T. all-purpose flour
1 bay leaf
A t. thyme leaves, chopped
1 lb. potatoes, peeled, diced
1 c. sliced green garlic
10 fresh littleneck clams in shell
3 c. heavy cream
6 T. dry sherry, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Sriracha sauce, to taste
Drain clam juice from minced clams and combine with enough bottled juice to equal 3 cups of liquid. Set
juice aside. Cook bacon slowly in soup pot over medium heat until lightly crisp, about 8 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5-7 minutes. Add flour and cook over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, 2-3 minutes. Whisk in clam juice, bring to a simmer, and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The liquid should be consistency of heavy cream. If too thick, add more clam juice. Add bay leaf, thyme, potatoes and green garlic and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place littlenecks and cream in saucepan and simmer until clams open, about 5-8 minutes. When potatoes are tender, add clams and cream to soup. Simmer 1-2 minutes.
Stir in sherry. Season to taste with salt, pepper and sriracha. Serves 4.