Reach exalted heights at Utah’s Zion National Park
Sometimes a vacation is for chilling; other times, for taking on a challenge. And sometimes, a destination sparks a personal transformation, one that shows you just what you're made of, and the heights you can reach. That's what happened to me during a recent trip to Zion National Park in Utah, where I decided to hike, scale and climb Angels Landing, one of our nation's premier — and extremely challenging — peaks.
To be honest, I did not truly understand the challenge before I was in the thick of it, though I had done my research. Angels Landing was “just” 1,484 feet, including a fairly pedestrian path that had been carved part way up in 1926. I knew there was a section of 21 switchbacks along the way called Walter's Wiggles, which had been painstakingly crafted by the Army Corp of Engineers, and that it was steep and a good workout.
And I thought I understood what the last half-mile would be like. Steep and tricky, yes, but I also had learned it was dotted with chains to help you get to the peak. How hard could it be? I reached out on social media and got lots of input. A few hearty friends mentioned they'd opted to turn back at Scout Lookout, an amazing ledge just before that final half-mile. I decided to take on the hike and make my call at that lookout.
The morning was perfect as the Red Mountain Spa guide (the hike was an excursion offering) brought me to Zion. Clear with puffy clouds against the azure sky, it was going to be hot, but we left early. (Something I suggest for anyone doing Angels Landing. It was cooler for us on the way up, and I could see it was getting crowded as we headed down.)
It's clear by the surroundings why Zion is protected, and why it has been a celebrated place for centuries. The Virgin River winds through it, dotting the awesome red and gray sandstone landscape with thick green trees, grassy knolls and bright wildflowers and cacti. The National Park Service does not allow cars during high season. Instead, shuttles take guests to multiple spots in the park. This means no rumble of engines, no stress of traffic, no pollution. It's brilliant.
My hike begins at The Grotto, where we follow the Virgin River for a way. Angels Landing soars toward the sky ahead of us. Steep and spectacular, it crosses my mind that this might be harder than I thought. But I'm so taken by the vista, I don't give it much thought.
Quickly, the hike gets steeper. I love a good workout and frankly cannot wait to see what my Fitbit has to say at day's end. The sun is on us, but as we wind along the lower part, we have shade here and there. I know at one point we will walk through Refrigerator Canyon, a part of the hike that has an almost mystical coolness for a bit. It is a cooling moment, but I'm glad my guide has insisted I cart along two huge bottles of water. (I'd actually brought three but gave one away on the shuttle when a woman admitted she'd not brought enough. How, I thought then, could I need three? Who knew?)