Boston Herald

Culture, beauty, art reign in Rutland

- By MOIRA McCARTHY

One might call Rutland, Vt., the state's own “city of light,” because all year round — and particular­ly in foliage season — it is a city alight in culture, activity and beauty.

Mind you, the word “city” has its own meaning in Vermont. While Rutland is indeed a city proper, it is one that draws from the countrysid­e around it and mountains that frame it, blending urban, natural and rural vibes.

Rutland was — decades ago — a city in need of some TLC. It got it, and today, the city is alive and busy, and the robust downtown district is walkable and fun. There you'll find artsy shops, great foodie spots and so much more. The trees that dot streets pick up the hues of the surroundin­g mountains, reminding you that you are indeed in the center of the foliage universe.

Art rules in Rutland, which you notice when you arrive. Before you even set foot in one of the three downtown art galleries, you'll notice the public murals. This isn't new — the popular summer Art in the Park event celebrated its 57th year in August. The predecesso­rs of Rutland residents emigrated from Europe to work in stone quarries, many of them artisans. That planted the seed for the art scene that continues to grow.

There is art in the food and farm scene as well. The Rutland Farmers Market, held Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Wednesdays from 3-6 p.m. through the end of October, lays claim as the largest in the state. In the fall, the offerings are plentiful — you'll find not just fresh grown produce, but jams, honeys, baked goods, eggs, locally made soaps, crafts, maple syrup (of course!) and so much more. It's like a weekly celebratio­n of all that is beautiful and delicious in and around Rutland.

Celebratio­ns come fast and fun in the autumn, too. The Mount Holly Cider Days, which take place Oct. 8-9, offer visitors autumn sights and sounds, including fall foliage, fresh cider from a vintage press while you watch, freshly baked apple crisp with ice cream or Crowley cheese, along with 30 local artisans, bakers, farmers and food vendors all teaming up to celebrate Vermont cider.

There's also a book sale, a calendar photo contest and, for a fee, an all-you-can-eat roast beef supper.

And on those seven peaks that look down on Rutland known as Killington Resort, a spooktacul­ar festival takes place.

Killington Witchcraft (also Oct. 8-9) promises to be “a scary amount of fun for everyone,” with a haunted house, haunted maze, horsedrawn hayrides and crazy hands-on activities such as a pumpkin hoist and a pumpkin catapult. (For real, adults and kids alike can take a turn launching 8-pound pumpkins 100 feet into the air using a medieval trebuchet, and see them splash into Killington Pond.) There are fall craft beers as well — because this is Vermont, after all — as well as age-appropriat­e movies and more fun. Just a quick jaunt from Rutland, this is the perfect reason to zip up into the hills for a bit during your city visit. Learn more at www.witchcraft­fest.com.

Back in town, you can spend some time at the general store. Actually, when it's Otto's Cones Point General Store, you'll want a lot of

time because this is more than just a general store. It features live music on the porch on weekends, as well as an Artists on the Porch series that brings in local artists to display and talk about their art and books — a true chance to chat up a local about the art and literary scene.

Ice cream is its own art form there, too, with six artisanal sundaes on the menu. The store makes its our own maple-infused, hand-formed waffle cones (sometimes dipped in chocolate and sprinkles). Its maple creemee is a must-try — a Vermont classic said to be one of the best in the state. It has 12 flavors of Wilcox hard ice cream and Brutus cold-brew coffee and Rookies Orange Creme soda, both Vermont-made.

Before you get that creamy dessert, try the store's renowned smoked chicken wings and smoked ribs, or tuck into a burger — made from fresh ground beef.

There's also craft beer and wine for purchase to bring home, and a whole lot more. Learn more at www. ottoscones­point.com.

With all that beauty and culture, it's no surprise Rutland is a favorite spot for weddings. The Red Clover Inn is a top spot for that, especially for couples looking for a locally sourced menu. A Red Clover wedding involves a “total inn takeover” for the nuptial weekend — the entire facility, 13 rooms, grounds, dining, bar — is reserved only for the wedding party.

The facilities are sophistica­ted yet comfortabl­e. Natural decor brings the outside in, and furniture and accents honor Vermont's (and the inn's) agricultur­al heritage (hutches, primitive antiques, a mammoth farm table in the dining room bought from a barn in Franklin County).

Wedding couples also save money and have some fun by borrowing some of the inn's accents — chalk boards for signs, mason jars for table displays, and other special Vermont and Rutland touches. And that reception feast is a collaborat­ion — the chef will work with the future Mr. and Mrs. to customize the wedding day meal.

Red Clover offers two gifts to wedding couples: compliment­ary night's stay with breakfast on the night of their inn visit as they consider the destinatio­n, and a night's stay in the honeymoon suite on the night of the wedding. The experience is so lovely, many couples return annually for their anniversar­y. Learn more at www. redcloveri­nn.com.

And of course, that all centers back to Rutland. With top shows at the Paramount (Graham Nash performed this year), the fun of exploring unique storefront­s and restaurant­s, the nearby mountains for activities and a feeling of city meets country, Rutland is indeed a city of light — illuminati­ng your Vermont foliage adventure. Learn more at www.rutland vermont.com.

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 ?? COURTESY PHOTOS ?? DAYS OF DELIGHT: The city of Rutland is located in a beautiful country setting, left, and features a large farmers market, above, and a vibrant art scene with numerous murals, right.
COURTESY PHOTOS DAYS OF DELIGHT: The city of Rutland is located in a beautiful country setting, left, and features a large farmers market, above, and a vibrant art scene with numerous murals, right.

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