‘Shires of Vermont’ offer beauty, charm, artistic splendor
Those in the know call it the “Shires of Vermont.” The winding roads that take you in and around two county seats — Manchester (the “Northshire”) and Bennington (the “Southshire”) of Bennington County — are tucked into the southwest corner of Vermont and beckon for a road trip.
Just a quick jaunt from Greater Boston (with no pesky northbound traffic jams), the Shires are great for a long daytrip or an extended overnight. Wandering is encouraged; you'll find much to savor and celebrate on almost every turn of the road.
Let's start our journey at the top of the region, in Manchester. This shire town offers the perfect blend of posh and primitive; culture and country. In the town proper, you can find sophisticated and artistic approaches to food, wineries and great shopping in outlet stores and shops with local crafts.
There's plenty of outdoor activity as well, from family fun at Bromley Mountain to golf and tennis at Stratton, and hiking at both spots as well as in between. You can indulge in a world-class spa at the Equinox (and stay there, too — consider learning falconry while on-site).
To anchor there for a night or two, a great choice is the Casablanca Motel, though “motel” doesn't begin to describe the experience. Tucked into hills overlooking the breathtaking fall foliage on the mountain range are quaint, beautiful and individually themed cottages — much like your own little home in the Vermont hills. Cabins are themed to celebrate what makes Vermont special. Relax on the porch, toss a few horseshoes or fire up the grill — it feels like a quaint
neighborhood you are part of. Learn more at www. casablancamotel.com.
Moving on from Manchester, your journey takes through Arlington, where you can find all things Scottish at Rablogan Castle and enjoy a tea or coffee in one of the town’s quaint shops.
Next on your route is Shaftsbury, where you will want to take your time savoring The Chocolate Barn. For real — a barn full of chocolate, operated by the same family for three generations. They’ve been making and selling chocolates and signature fudge from a restored circa 1842 sheep barn, originally part of the largest sheep farm in Vermont. Sweet in so many ways.
That takes you next to Bennington, the other shire town. While Manchester gave you a taste of posh, Bennington leans decidedly and delightfully toward bohemian. That’s not to say it’s not chock-full of smart, fun and amazing experiences. With five colleges and a medical center, it is absolutely a hub. But the nano-breweries, rustic shops and unique dining give it that special vibe.
Now is the time to make it a regular stop, too. With the $50 million Putman Project hotel renovation, Bennington is on the edge of a major uptick.
A must visit in Bennington is the Bennington Museum, home (through Nov. 5) to the largest public collection of paintings by Anna Mary Robertson Moses, better known as Grandma Moses. The artist was catapulted to international fame during the 1940s as a result of her charming, naively executed paintings of rural American farm life.
“Grandma Moses: American Modern” helps you look at this beloved American artist with fresh eyes. It is a long-overdue exhibition that will re-establish her place in the mid-century art world.
The Bennington Museum is also featuring “Between Past and Future: Clemens Kalischer’s Vermont,” through Oct. 1. Born in Germany in 1921, Clemens Kalischer fled with his family to France in 1933 and escaped to the United States in 1942. A self-taught photographer, he first made his reputation with photographs of fellow refugees arriving in New York after the wa, and the graphic, modernist evocations of streets and buildings. But Kalischer’s heart was not in the city, and in 1951 he moved to Stockbridge, Mass.
Kalischer often came to Vermont seeking inspiration, and in this exhibition the viewer is treated to more than 30 images, including some taken during six decades of photographing the Marlboro Music Festival.
Another display worth viewing is the 1863 Jane Stickle Quilt (through Oct. 9), which inspires quilters from all over the world. Brought to the museum 60 years ago, the Jane Stickle Quilt is shown for just a short time each year due to the fragility of the fabric. It is as much a part of the Shires’ autumn as the trees themselves. Learn more at www.benningtonmuseum. org.
Located in the picturesque town of Bennington, the Bennington Center for the Arts is both an art gallery and a museum. It is made up of seven galleries and features both sales shows and a large permanent collection. The permanent collection contains wildlife art, a room of master carver Floyd Scholz’s bird carvings, the Covered Bridge Museum (which includes a wall of Eric Sloane’s paintings), and an impressive array of Native American art. This Native American collection consists of hundreds of pieces, such as jewelry, pottery, handwoven baskets, kachinas, Zuni fetishes, Navajo rugs and a variety of paintings and sculptures.
This month there will be two sales shows opening at the Bennington Center for the Arts. On Saturday, “Artists for the New Century” will open, featuring work from artists who show promise in today’s art world.
“The Members Show” begins on Sept. 23 and consists of work from artists who are members of the center. Both shows will stay up until Dec. 23. Learn more at www. thebennington.org.
The campus of Southern Vermont College, particularly lovely during the fall, is a great stop for a sampling of history, education and fun. Founded in 1974 but with roots extending to 1926, Southern Vermont College and its historic Everett Mansion are on a 371-acre campus overlooking the Green Mountains. Offering a select range of strong, personalized academic programs grounded in the liberal arts and laying the foundation for further education and productive careers, the college is known for its student outcomes and its missiondriven commitment to all community members.
Southern Vermont College offers many events during fall that are open to the public, including lectures, festivals and art exhibits. For more information, go to svc.edu.
Of course, all along this route there is the beautiful outdoors. Hiking, trout fishing, biking paths and more invite you outside to soak in the autumn beauty. That's why you'll want to stay longer. At this end of the Shires, you can lay your head at The Harwood Hill, a beautiful lodging set on four acres of land atop Harwood Hill with spectacular views of the Bennington Battle Monument and the Green Mountains. The quiet country location on the north side of Bennington is just minutes from local attractions, colleges and the medical center. All rooms are modern and comfortable, and the new two-bedroom Farmhouse Suites feel like your own vacation rental.
The Harwood Hill features a special Arts Package, which with a two-night stay includes:
Admission for two at the Bennington Museum
Admission for two at The Bennington Center for the Arts and Covered Bridge Museum
A pair of tickets for a performance at the Oldcastle Theatre Company
A pair of mugs from Bennington Potters
A host of great discounts from local shops
The icing on the cake: Sculptor and conceptual artist Angus McCullough will schedule a private visit to his studio at the North Bennington Arts Exchange for those who'd like to visit a local artist at work.
Learn more at www. harwoodhillmotel.com.
Winding along from Manchester to Bennington, a journey through the Shires gives you all the best Vermont offers, framed in the glorious colors of fall.