SPRINGTIME IN SEATTLE
Get hip to city’s warmer weather, cool eateries, artsy neighborhoods
It's that gray time of year — the calendar officially says “spring” but it doesn't feel like we're there just yet. Longing for fresh blooms and warmer weather? There's a surprising getaway choice for that: Seattle.
A recent visit showed me that while Seattle may be known for rain, in fact it's home to a mellow climate that's almost always welcoming. Even in late February, baskets of blooming pansies hang from light posts. Grass grows green and while there are snow caps on the distant mountains across the sound, it just feels warmer. I took a four-day weekend trip to the Emerald City and found great scenery, cool and walkable neighborhoods, and an amazing culinary scene.
I flew to Seattle direct from Boston on JetBlue (lucky enough to snag a seat in its new Mint section).
I chose the Thompson Seattle (110 Stewart St., thompsonhotels.com) as my home base. New last year, the hotel is a mashup of elegant and laid-back simplicity (as in a plaid theme in the main restaurant and a giant flannel bear in the foyer). It's in the center of the city, a block from Pike Place Market, which makes it accessible to just about everywhere, and with some breathtaking views. While Ubers are plentiful, I was able to walk to almost every neighborhood I wanted to visit.
I chose to have my first Seattle meal at the hotel, in that flannel-based main restaurant, Scout PNW, created by chef Josh Henderson.
I set out the next day, a sunny one (Seattle averages 192 sunny days a year), to explore, first meandering around famed Pike Place Market. Here's a tip: Before cruise season, Pike Place is less crowded but just as cool. I loved checking out the fresh food and flowers, and found some true gems in the side alleys — tiny little “hole in the wall” places with incredible fresh, local food.
For culture, the Seattle Art Museum (1300 First Ave., seattleartmuseum.org) is a must. The theater is strong there too, from local groups performing to (as was the case when
I was there) “Hamilton” visiting the city. Touristy fun goes beyond Pike Place (where you must watch them toss fish — it's almost a rule). The Space Needle (400 Broad St.) is a classic visit, as is a cruise out into Puget Sound.
The food was what surprised me most. I expected fresh seafood. What I didn't know is Seattle is a city with a thriving foodie scene. I found amazing meals in cool spots, like the smoked crispy chicken I chose at Rider (1531 Seventh Ave.), a new restaurant in the heart of the posh shopping district just above Fifth Avenue. (After lunch I wandered around and found some amazing food trucks there.) Or the brunch I savored with a local friend at RockCreek (4300 Fremont Ave. N.), near the Scandinavian part of town. I chose its “Tar Pit” off the brunch menu, a kind of hepped-up variation of biscuits and gravy. And just to be polite, we shared a RockCreek classic, the giant cinnamon roll. Heavenly.
At dinner one night at Mbar (400 Fairview Ave. N.), I vowed to go lighter, savoring the grilled trout. But my waiter talked me into their
bread service, too. No worry, admiring the views helped me burn it off.
I hit some classics as well. Top Pot Doughnuts (2124 Fifth Ave. and 101 Stewart St.) is a must visit. I'd also heard about the delicate pastries at La Parisienne (2507 Fourth Ave.), so I walked there for a taste as well (so worth it).
There was more: Cocktails at cool spots, coffee (of course!) and a walk through the Capitol Hill region, where great food, art spots and shopping all mingle into one great scene.
By weekend's end, I'd walked miles, sampled so many great meals, visited cool, diverse neighborhoods and rested up for more at the lovely Thompson.
Visiting Seattle for a spring vibe when you cannot find it at home: Who knew?