Looking forward and back
Gorgeous designs, beauty trends on NYFW runways
NEW YORK — With New York Fashion Week coming to a close, there’s lots to take away from runways that were full of fresh ideas, colors both bold and deep, and shapes that were retro and innovative — not just in fashion, but also in hair and beauty.
As much as a look backwards played into many of the pieces presented, the same nostalgia was on display in many of the makeup looks and ’dos. There were references to years past in bits and pieces — a hairstyle here, or a eyeshadow swoop there, even if the clothes that accompanied them were very forward-thinking, and sometimes vice versa.
At Brandon Maxwell, for starters, clothing was modern in structure and shape, but there was a definite penchant for retro ’50s hair parted to the side, a la old Hollywood waves, or slicked back. If hats count as a hair accessory, Maxwell is most certainly on board; beanies covered at least half of the well-coifed heads. That said, the throwback beauty details were the ultimate complement to the designer’s glen plaid jackets and loose shearling overcoats.
Carolina Herrera came out with bright saffron dresses, by turns belted and flowing, laser-cut shirts and frocks in neutrals, and paired it all with barely there makeup punctuated by ’70s-inspired hair parted right down the middle and then pulled back into a low ponytail. As far as beauty inspirations to emulate go, it’s one of the easiest and most universally flattering to pull off the runway and
make part of your handful of everyday looks.
Prabal Gurung wasn’t far off that same mark; the designer also sent out lots of center-parted hair (some of it worn long rather than pulled back) and iridescent eyeshadows. It was the perfect foil to commanding Victorian coats, animalprint numbers and cutout evening dresses.
The ’90s had a showing in beauty, too. At Monse’s tartan-happy show, grunge took a glam turn with shorts-horn bangs and wavy, unkempt locks. It was a nice match to the bright eyeshadows and occasion bright lip, as well as the plaids in a handful of vibrant formats. And yes, there were yet more center parts — for all lengths of haircuts, whether pulled back or left to flow over the stunning clothing.
WARMING TREND: Knit beanies in coordinating colors, above left, topped many models at the Brandon Maxwell show. Carolina Herrera contrasted bright colors, above right, with minimalist makeup and center-parted hair worn in a low ponytail.
MAD FOR PLAID: While some Monse models wore their hair with a center part, above left, the overall look was less polished, above right, and more in keeping with the tartan accents reminiscent of the grunge era.
SLEEK EFFECT: Brandon Maxwell featured slickedback hair, above, while center-parted hair pulled back into a low ponytail starred at Carolina Herrera, left.
CONTRASTING VIEWS: Dramatic eyeshadow and liner effects, above, teamed with some Prabal Gurung outfits, while others featured neutral colors, below.