Look­ing for­ward and back

Gor­geous de­signs, beauty trends on NYFW run­ways

Boston Herald - - The Edge - Gretta MON­A­HAN

NEW YORK — With New York Fash­ion Week com­ing to a close, there’s lots to take away from run­ways that were full of fresh ideas, colors both bold and deep, and shapes that were retro and in­no­va­tive — not just in fash­ion, but also in hair and beauty.

As much as a look back­wards played into many of the pieces pre­sented, the same nostal­gia was on dis­play in many of the makeup looks and ’dos. There were ref­er­ences to years past in bits and pieces — a hair­style here, or a eye­shadow swoop there, even if the clothes that ac­com­pa­nied them were very for­ward-think­ing, and some­times vice versa.

At Bran­don Maxwell, for starters, cloth­ing was modern in struc­ture and shape, but there was a def­i­nite pen­chant for retro ’50s hair parted to the side, a la old Hol­ly­wood waves, or slicked back. If hats count as a hair accessory, Maxwell is most cer­tainly on board; bean­ies cov­ered at least half of the well-coifed heads. That said, the throw­back beauty de­tails were the ul­ti­mate com­ple­ment to the de­signer’s glen plaid jack­ets and loose shear­ling over­coats.

Carolina Herrera came out with bright saf­fron dresses, by turns belted and flow­ing, laser-cut shirts and frocks in neu­trals, and paired it all with barely there makeup punc­tu­ated by ’70s-in­spired hair parted right down the mid­dle and then pulled back into a low pony­tail. As far as beauty in­spi­ra­tions to em­u­late go, it’s one of the eas­i­est and most uni­ver­sally flat­ter­ing to pull off the run­way and

make part of your hand­ful of ev­ery­day looks.

Pra­bal Gu­rung wasn’t far off that same mark; the de­signer also sent out lots of cen­ter-parted hair (some of it worn long rather than pulled back) and iri­des­cent eye­shad­ows. It was the per­fect foil to com­mand­ing Vic­to­rian coats, an­i­mal­print num­bers and cutout evening dresses.

The ’90s had a show­ing in beauty, too. At Monse’s tar­tan-happy show, grunge took a glam turn with shorts-horn bangs and wavy, unkempt locks. It was a nice match to the bright eye­shad­ows and oc­ca­sion bright lip, as well as the plaids in a hand­ful of vi­brant for­mats. And yes, there were yet more cen­ter parts — for all lengths of hair­cuts, whether pulled back or left to flow over the stun­ning cloth­ing.

WARM­ING TREND: Knit bean­ies in co­or­di­nat­ing colors, above left, topped many mod­els at the Bran­don Maxwell show. Carolina Herrera con­trasted bright colors, above right, with min­i­mal­ist makeup and cen­ter-parted hair worn in a low pony­tail.

MAD FOR PLAID: While some Monse mod­els wore their hair with a cen­ter part, above left, the over­all look was less pol­ished, above right, and more in keep­ing with the tar­tan ac­cents rem­i­nis­cent of the grunge era.

APPHOTOS

SLEEK EF­FECT: Bran­don Maxwell fea­tured slicked­back hair, above, while cen­ter-parted hair pulled back into a low pony­tail starred at Carolina Herrera, left.

CON­TRAST­ING VIEWS: Dra­matic eye­shadow and liner ef­fects, above, teamed with some Pra­bal Gu­rung out­fits, while oth­ers fea­tured neu­tral colors, be­low.

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