Warm up to winter squash
Rich flavor the reward for a little prep work
All summer, we enjoy our share of zucchini and summer squashes. Come autumn, we happily embrace their harder-shelled, densely fleshed, sweet-tasting brethren. Like summer squash, mild-tasting winter squash welcomes bold flavor additions. Unlike summer squash, most winter squash varieties keep well for weeks, sometimes months, so fans can stock up at local farmers markets and produce stands.
There are dozens and dozens of squash varieties; it’s worth your time to get to know them. Acorn squash has long been an American staple, but it’s certainly not the most interesting flavorwise. Three favorites — butternut, spaghetti squash and kabocha — can be found readily in large grocery stores. More exotic renditions, such as buttercup, red kuri, Hubbard and delicata, show up at farmers markets in early fall.
No matter what kind of squash you decide to try, select a squash that is heavy, rock hard and free of blemishes. When possible, choose squashes with their stems attached — these will keep the longest.
Once purchased, you’ll need to address peeling and cutting the squash. Not all squashes need to be peeled, but if they do, peel using a vegetable peeler, then switch to a paring knife to trim any stubborn bits before cubing.
If you are not peeling your squash, be careful! Cutting through the tough skin requires a sharp knife and some pressure. Make sure your cutting board is stable and keep your eyes on the knife. Cut the squash in half, then scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Set the cut side down to cut into wedges or smaller pieces. Enlist help to cut up the squash. The reward is delicious!
After the squash is peeled, cut or sliced, you can keep it in the refrigerator for three to five days. This makes weekday squash cooking doable for time-pressured cooks. You can freeze raw diced squash on a baking sheet until solid. Then scoop the frozen pieces into a freezer-safe bag and freeze for up to six months, so you can make fresh squash soups, stews and braises all year long. Cooked squash also keeps well in the refrigerator and can be frozen.
GRILLED BUTTERNUT ROUNDS
Serve these grilled squash rounds on brioche rolls smeared with mayonnaise and topped with grilled onion and pickles for a very satisfying meatless burger. Or, sprinkle with herbs and a little lime juice and serve with cooked farro or French lentils.
1 very large butternut squash, about 3 1/2 lbs., with a thick “neck” 3 inches or more in diameter
Expeller pressed canola oil, safflower oil or sunflower oil
2 t. chili powder
1 t. coarse (kosher) salt
Preheat a gas grill or prepare a charcoal grill for moderately low heat.
Cut the squash in half so you have the bulbous end and the longer neck. Save the bulbous end for another use (peeled and cubed for steaming, for example). Peel the neck of the squash, then lay it flat on a cutting board and use a large sharp knife to cut it into l-inch thick rounds.
Place the rounds on a baking sheet and brush generously with oil. Sprinkle both sides with chili powder and salt.
Grill covered over low heat, turning once, until tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Serve warm.
ROASTED ACORN SQUASH, TWO WAYS
Baking squash whole for a short period of time will soften it somewhat so it’s easier to cut in half.
1 large acorn squash Expeller pressed canola oil,
safflower or sunflower oil Coarse (kosher) salt
3 T. caper-raisin relish (recipe follows) OR 2 T. butter and 1 T. sriracha Chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, basil or cilantro Heat oven to 375 degrees. Pierce 1 large acorn squash in several places with the tip of a sharp knife. Put into a baking dish. Bake until squash starts to soften, about 20 minutes, then remove from the oven.
Carefully cut squash in half and scoop out seeds. Brush cut side with oil. Sprinkle all over with salt. Return to the baking dish cut side up. Bake until flesh is tender when pierced with a fork, 40-50 minutes.
Spoon some of the caperraisin relish into each squash cavity. Or, put half of the butter and sriracha into each cavity. Return to the oven to heat through, about 10 minutes.
Serve hot or warm topped with herbs.
CAPER-RAISIN RELISH
This nearly addictive sweet and tangy caper-raisin relish complements virtually everything from simple steamed squash to grilled poultry. Try it over pasta tossed with shredded romano cheese for a bold-flavored dish. Omit the anchovies if they are not your thing, but replace them with some dried mushroom powder or a splash of soy sauce for an umami punch.
N c. dark raisins
2 T. very hot water
2 T. drained capers
1 T. balsamic vinegar
1 T. fresh lemon juice
1 T. extra virgin olive oil 1 clove crushed garlic
1K t. finely minced anchovy fillet or K t. mushroom powder
N t. crushed red pepper
flakes
N t. salt
N t. black pepper
Put raisins into a small bowl. Add the very hot water and let stand 5 minutes. Drain water off raisins.
Stir in drained capers, balsamic vinegar, fresh lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. Stir in crushed garlic, minced anchovy fillet (or mushroom powder), crushed red pepper flakes, salt and black pepper.
Can be made up to 3 days in advance and stored covered in the refrigerator. Just before serving, stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil. Makes about M cup.
KABOCHA HASH WITH MINTED RICOTTA AND CAPER-RAISIN RELISH
Caper-raisin relish (recipe above)
1/2 C. ricotta cheese
1 T. minced fresh mint leaves
1/2 t. salt
1/4 T. coarsely ground black pepper
4 c. (16-20 oz.) cubed, peeled kabocha squash (about O-inch piece size) L c. water
1 1/2 T. coconut oil or expeller pressed canola oil or safflower oil 1 medium-size red or sweet onion, peeled, halved, cut into N-inch wedges
1 small poblano or red bell pepper, cored, diced Linch
1 small jalapeno, halved, seeded, finely chopped Make caper-raisin relish. Mix ricotta, minced mint leaves, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Let stand at room temperature for up to 30 minutes or refrigerate covered for up to a day.
Put kabocha squash cubes in a microwave-safe bowl and add the water. Cover with microwave-safe plastic wrap, vented at one corner. Microwave on high (100% power), stirring once or twice, until nearly tender, about 5 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes. Drain.
Heat a large, well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot. Add oil, then onion. Cook, stirring often, until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in drained squash, diced poblano and finely chopped jalapeno. Cook, mashing squash lightly until things start to get crusty and crispy, about 10 minutes.
Serve hot, dolloped with minted ricotta and some of the caper-raisin relish.
APPLE AND BUTTERNUT SHEET PAN DINNER WITH CHICKEN SAUSAGE
Serve this with cornbread or corn muffins and plenty of soft butter for a satisfying fall supper.
4 c. (16-20 oz.) cubed,
peeled butternut squash 1 very large Honeycrisp apple, peeled, cored, cubed
1/2 large red or sweet onion, cut into N-inch-wide wedges
2 T. expeller pressed canola oil, safflower oil or sunflower oil
1/2 t. coarse (kosher) salt
1/4 t. pepper
4 fully cooked smoked chicken sausage or chicken sausage with apples, 12 oz. total
1/2 c. unfiltered apple cider 2 T. unfiltered apple cider
vinegar
1 t. fresh (or 1/2 t. dried) thyme leaves or oregano, or a combination Chopped fresh chives or parsley or a combination Heat oven to 375 degrees. Mix butternut squash, apple and onion wedges on a large, rimmed sheet pan. Toss with oil and salt and pepper. Roast, stirring every 10 minutes, until squash is almost tender, about 30 minutes.
Add chicken sausages, apple cider, vinegar and thyme to the pan. Roast, stirring once or twice, until sausages are warmed and golden, 20-25 minutes. Sprinkle with chives. Use a spoon to serve to scoop up any juices.