Step back in time
Old Town Alexandria offers tapestry of history and culture minutes from D.C.
How can a visit to Washington, D.C., visit serve up even even more history, fun and culture? By heading next door for a bit. The lovely hamlet of Old Town Alexandria seamlessly intertwines history, architecture, gastronomy, shopping, artistry and beauty, all in one easy-to-navigate spot.
But hamlet seems like too simple a word for all that Alexandria has to offer. It’s world-class in its breadth of activities, but its quaint vibe makes “city” too big a word for it.
I added a two-day Old Town Alexandria side trip to a recent D.C. outing, after years of visiting the nation’s capital. My take away? From here on, at least a day — and whenever possible more — will be added to my D.C. trips.
Alexandria — the adopted hometown of George Washington (he surveyed it as a teen and developed a lifetime love of the place) — is so close to D.C. proper that you can get there by Metro, a quick car share or, our choice, the Water Taxi that’s like an adventure in itself.
And while it’s this close to the big city, Alexandria stands on its own. You could choose from countless themes: shopping, foodie adventure, history lessons, sightseeing, education or be like me: Weave them all into one special stay.
I headed there with my daughter, a D.C. resident who’d been there to dine out and to visit a fave karaoke bar. We centered our stay at Old
Town’s new Hotel Indigo (ihg.com/hotelindigo/hotels/ us/en/alexandria/axein/ hoteldetail), the area’s only waterfront hotel. It’s bright, airy and comfortable, and set in the perfect spot along the Potomac River.
From there, we chose different adventures, able to fit so much into just two days.
Gastronomy/ culinary
Not ashamed to say: We love to nosh, and in the most local and authentic ways we can.
We found an incredible breakfast at Café de Soleil (cafedusoleilva.com), just across the street from Hotel Indigo. French inspired, they’re known for their crepes (my daughter chose
sweet over savory this day) and more. I devoured an incredible take on avocado toast, washed down by a perfect latte.
We also loved Misha’s Coffee (with two spots: one near the riverfront, the other — where we went — farther up King Street), for house-made doughnuts and excellent coffee.
For lunch we chose to sit waterside at Vola’s Dockside Grill (volasdockside.com). Looking out on the active river and waterfront, we savored crab dip and then a shrimp po’ boy for the ages. I’m not usually a daytime cocktail gal, but the painkiller there? A must-try. The service was beyond lovely as well.
Dinner choices were plentiful. We chose Irish one night at the delightful Daniel O’Connell’s (our waiter hailed from Dublin), seafood another at BARCA, where you can sit outside by fire pits (should it be chilly) or inside at a wine bar.
For a nightcap, The Old Hat, a spot with a speakeasyvibe, was our favorite.
Shopping and meandering
The heart of Old Town is King Street — a mile-long stretch of shops (mostly independently owned), restaurants and historic spots. The first section is blocked from traffic — one late afternoon musicians played violins as backdrop to the relaxed
atmosphere. Fun fact: Jim Morrison of the Doors and Cass Elliot and John Phillips of the Mamas and the Papas all hail from this town.
We found ourselves returning to the street over and over, finding more spots to love each time.
One incredible visit that all who head to Old Town simply must experience is the Turkish Coffee Lady.
This shop, new to the street but not to the general D.C. area, is lovingly run by Gizem Salcigil White, who has been traveling the world in her Turkish Coffee truck since 2012 with a mission of building cross-cultural friendships through coffee diplomacy. She means it, and you’ll feel it if you visit.
The shop is like a step into true Turkey, with decor, music, food and yes — coffee — all Turkish.
Her business partner Hasan Kale has the gift of reading coffee grounds. Enter, order, savor and then listen — it’s a magical experience. Just do it.
Something that struck us about the many shops and spots like Turkish Coffee Lady was simple and yet rare: Every single person we met seemed truly happy to see us. Old Town loves its guests, it seems.
History and more
There are plenty of ways to soak in the rich history of the town. Options for walking
tours include both self-guided and led by local experts. There are cool museums, including the Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Museum, where you can learn about how apothecaries impacted the world back in the day. Imagine seeing a hand-written request for castor oil from Martha Washington!
There are more classic choices too, like the Alexandria Black History Museum and the Freedom Museum. In all, there are eight museums, along with countless historic homes and buildings.
Art and atmosphere
Inside and out — and even on the sides of buildings — art is everywhere. At the Torpedo Factory Art Center you’ll find a thriving community of artists at work — many live across the road — with open space for you to watch them at their craft. The I Love You art installation on the waterfront is as Instagrammable — and lovely — as art comes.
And for the quirky, check out the Spite House — a 7-foot-wide home built to keep loiterers out of an alley — thus the name.
Old Town Alexandria has so much more. That’s why, every time you go to D.C., you should give it at least a day — or two. It offers a tapestry of history and culture, quietly thriving right next to our nation’s capital. What a bonus that is.