Boston Sunday Globe

In Southern France, wandering goats, gruff exchanges

- By Catherine Porter

SAINT-ANDRÉ-DE-ROQUELONGU­E, France — Valérie Corbeaux lives on a rocky hilltop in the dry southwest part of France with her herd of goats.

She doesn’t butcher them or use their milk for cheese. Instead, the former Parisian walks with them, feeds them hay and stays up all night in an ancient stone barn to comfort them when they are sick. They are living creatures, she says, no less worthy of love or freedom than humans.

The problem is the goats keep breeding.

And roaming farther afield, scrambling up onto regional highways and into distant vineyards, where they have been known to nibble on the leaves of vines that form the region’s economic lifeline — Corbières wine.

After they munched through two hectares of Julie Rolland’s Vermentino vines in 2020, she called Corbeaux and tried to resolve the issue the country way — woman to woman, agricultur­alist to agricultur­alist, enthusiast to enthusiast.

Rolland is a former optometris­t who took over her parents’ vineyard soon after her mother died. For her, the vines offer more than a vocation — they pulse with personal history.

That first year, Corbeaux’s insurance paid for her goats’ damage. Since then, Corbeaux lost her insurance and the problem has grown.

“The problem isn’t the goats; the problem is the person who doesn’t oversee them,” said Rolland, 42, who compares her daily ritual of phoning one local authority after another to an issue of the French comic book series “Astérix.”

“We are trapped in a pathetic caricature of French administra­tion,” Rolland said. “I want to scream all the time. There are laws! What are they waiting for?”

Now that spring has arrived, her calls have become more urgent. If the goats eat her vineyards’ tender buds, Rolland will lose more income and more heritage.

“I’m alone. I can’t patrol all the land,” she said. “Should I buy a gun and take care of it myself ? You start thinking crazy things.”

This is a story about French liberty and bureaucrac­y. It is about different visions of the countrysid­e and nature. It’s about fire management, fights between neighbors and Brigitte Bardot. But mostly, it is about goats.

No one knows exactly how many goats are in Corbeaux’s herd. From atop her homestead, which is about 20 miles from Narbonne, Corbeaux says there are 500.

Down in the vineyards below, her neighbors say many have gone wild and multiplied. A recent weekend survey estimated “at least 600,” said Stéphane Villarubia­s, director of the region’s national forestry office. The problem is they are hard to count — “they pass like clouds and disappear into the woods,” he added. “We aren’t sure if there are many herds now.”

One thing everyone agrees on: There are too many for one person to control.

“It’s too much work,” said Corbeaux, calling even 500 “enormous.” At 55 years old, she said, she has heart problems from exhaustion.

“For three years, I’ve been asking for help for my billy goats.”

Corbeaux wasn’t born a shepherd. She grew up in Paris’ gritty 10th Arrondisse­ment and ran a computer-software company. At 30, she had an epiphany. “I was earning a lot of money, I was working a lot and I didn’t have the time to spend it,” she recalled. “I said: ‘A life like this is worthless. I want to be useful.’”

She moved close to Avignon, in southern France, determined to work as an energy healer. But then she clapped eyes on two baby goats at a medieval fair.

“I was hypnotized,” she said. To buy them, she bartered an electric cooler — worth 500 euros — that she had just purchased to start a new job selling wine.

The two became five, then 40. She abandoned all plans of work and cared for them full time. “They are just my babies,” said Corbeaux, spreading hay around a section of her stone barn crowded by her adult female goats that she counts at 52, not including the wobbly legged kid born an hour earlier. “I would die for my goats.”

She spent years moving, looking for the ideal place where her goats could “be effective and useful,” she said, “and I could care for them and give them the most natural life possible.”

Finally, she found her current farmhouse and barn on 680 hectares of mostly uninhabite­d scrubland and settled in. By then, she had 70 goats.

Goats were once common in the bushy, uninhabite­d area. They were considered living fire retardants because they nibbled flammable shrubs and shortened dry grass, said Luc Castan, mayor of nearby Roquefort-des-Corbières, whose father raised his village’s last herd in the 1970s, and who fought to reintroduc­e them last summer as flames ripped through the region.

In this vein, Corbeaux believed she was bringing back the eco-pasturage tradition. She began receiving European Union grants for the work — totaling about 35,000 euros a year, she says, although they were recently cut.

For four years, she could keep up with her goats by foot. But then, her growing group of males started wandering farther afield.

The first complaints from local vintners came in 2019.

“They came more and more regularly, in bigger and bigger groups,” said Philippe Montanié, a vintner, peering through a scope at a group of 10 goats meandering along a row of sauvignon blanc vines near his home.

“It’s been five years we’ve chased them. My employees, that’s all they did in the afternoon. Two just quit. Their profession is wine, not goats.”

In 2021, his insurance company hired an expert who cataloged the damage to 2.5 hectares and estimated his loss at 42,600 euros. Since then, the goats have struck other regions. A field he replanted last summer today appears like a moonscape — no green, no twigs, nothing but rocky soil. He has put his losses at close to 300,000 euros, including opportunit­y cost for fields he didn’t replant out of caution.

At least 10 vintners have made formal complaints to police about damage to their property by Corbeaux’s goats, according to the local subprefect, or state official overseeing the Narbonne area.

Last spring, a legal mediator tried to reach an agreement between three vintners and Corbeaux — not for compensati­on, but to ensure the problem stopped. The effort ended in failure.

Since then, things have not improved. Her neighbors call her irresponsi­ble and a “pseudoecol­ogist” who is harming not just their livelihood­s, but the local ecology. Their wineries are all organic, they point out bitterly.

Corbeaux agrees her goats have done damage and she should pay compensati­on. But she says she believes that the devastatio­n has been exaggerate­d for insurance claims. She calls her opponents “thieves” and “bandits” who have used her as a convenient scapegoat — a strange woman who lives alone atop a rocky mesa, surrounded by goats she lets roam free.

Seeing the vintners and the hunters against her, Corbeaux summoned another strong force of rural France — animal welfare activists.

“Prevent the savage slaughter of my 250 scrub-clearing billy goats,” she wrote on the petition she began on change.org last year. More than 46,000 signatures poured in.

In the end, someone who could relate to Corbeaux’s love for her animals came to the rescue. The foundation of Brigitte Bardot, a movie star turned animal welfare activist, offered a solution in the form of 40,000 euros to build a fence around 160 hectares of the area Corbeaux rents, to keep the goats in. It also pledged to pay for a team of veterinari­ans to castrate her male goats, so they stop propagatin­g.

Corbeaux is facing at least three court hearings in May and June over complaints of damage from vintners, allegation­s of mistreatme­nt from state veterinari­ans, and charges related to her goats being on the highways.

Two local villages have built pens, filled with hay, to lure any vagrants. Those that Corbeaux doesn’t claim — and pay for — will be sold or given away, said Maître, adding that she has a healthy waiting list.

Corbeaux said she is grateful that a solution was found, but it brings her to tears. “I’m in love with my billy goats, frankly. I don’t think we have the right to do whatever we want — not to kill them, nor to castrate them,” she said. “We should respect them more than that.”

 ?? ANDREA MANTOVANI/NEW YORK TIMES ?? Valérie Corbeaux, seen counting her goats in Villesèque-des-Corbières, France, dismisses widespread complaints of damage to neighborin­g vineyards and farms by her growing herds.
ANDREA MANTOVANI/NEW YORK TIMES Valérie Corbeaux, seen counting her goats in Villesèque-des-Corbières, France, dismisses widespread complaints of damage to neighborin­g vineyards and farms by her growing herds.

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