When in Dorchester, eat at Via Cannuccia
Where to: Via Cannuccia, a Dorchester trattoria that opened in the spring.
Why: For antipasti, pasta, and Roman-style pizza in a lively little restaurant from Italian chef Stefano Quaresima. There’s weekend brunch, too.
The backstory: Quaresima grew up south of Rome in the seaside town of Anzio and cooked at restaurants in Italy and France; he came to the United States in 2013 to work at Petit Robert Bistro. He and wife Tsedenia Kiros opened Via Cannuccia in their own Dorchester neighborhood. The restaurant takes its name from Quaresima’s childhood street.
What to eat: Snack on boards of Italian and local cheese or prosciutto, pork shoulder terrine, and housemade porchetta ($16-$18) with a salad of roasted beets, farro, and arugula ($14). Crunch into suppli cacio e pepe ($9): The fried, cheese-filled rice balls are a favorite street food in Rome. Quaresima’s eggplant parmigiana ($14) is a highlight of the menu, wrapped in rice paper for a crunch that offsets the eggplant’s tenderness. The classic Roman pasta all’amatriciana ($23) is adapted here with pancetta instead of guanciale for porky richness and Thai chiles for heat. Pizza alla pala ($14-$19), another specialty of Rome, can be ordered with a variety of toppings — from a white pizza with mushroom, sausage, mozzarella, and olive oil to the Diavola, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and spicy cured sausage. Brunch brings riffs on the frittata ($15), a glorious array of Quaresima’s own baked goods from croissants ($4) to cream-filled maritozzi ($5), and more.
What to drink: Italian wine, of course.
The takeaway: On a recent Thursday night, it feels as if the whole neighborhood is here. With its friendly vibe and prices, Via Cannuccia is a welcome addition to the area.
1739 Dorchester Ave., Dorchester. 617-506-1877, www.viacannuccia.com