Boston Sunday Globe

Up & Down knows the ins and outs of making burgers

- Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.

Where to: Up & Down, a smash burger and fried chicken sandwich joint inside Mike & Patty’s in Jamaica Plain.

Why: If you fly in and out of California frequently, you might be familiar with a certain cult-favorite fast food joint that proliferat­es there. Up & Down takes a similar — but different — direction with its food.

The backstory: Known for its breakfast sandwiches, Mike & Patty’s expanded from its original Bay Village location to Somerville, Newton, JP, and downtown dining hall High Street Place. Along the way, it introduced ancillary concepts like Hot Box (specializi­ng in North Shore roast beef and South Shore bar pizza), Hall Pass (Philly cheesestea­ks), and Flourhouse Bakery. Up & Down is the latest. It’s open during Mike & Patty’s off hours, Thursday through Sunday from 4 to 10 p.m.

What to eat: Smash burgers, the meat flattened and pressed onto the hot cooking surface to create the crustiest, tastiest patty possible. At Up & Down, they are served on Flourhouse rolls, in various permutatio­ns. The Up & Down OG ($10) is classic, with double patties and double American cheese slices, lettuce, onion, pickles, and Kewpie mayo. For all you animals, there’s also the “Savage Style” burger ($10.50), which adds caramelize­d onions and something called “phuct sauce” to the mix. (Don’t ask me how to pronounce that in a family publicatio­n.) On the poultry side, you’ll find the likes of the Taki Clucker ($12.50), a fried chicken breast on a Flourhouse roll with slaw, spicy mayo, and Taki dust. (For those who enjoy their chips pulverized, Cheeto dust is also available on the long list of addons — fried mozzarella, arugula, avocado, bacon — that allows patrons to customize their food.) Yes, you can get fries with that, plain ($4) or Phuct ($7) — with house-made cheese whiz, caramelize­d onions, and more of that unpronounc­eable sauce.

What to drink: On the nonalcohol­ic side: water, juice, soda, cold brew, and chocolate, strawberry, or banana milk. For those who want something boozy: craft beer and cider, canned mimosas, and Downeast Blue Slushies, which look like windshield wiper fluid and taste like a childhood beverage no child should ever drink.

The takeaway: Up & Down doesn’t have a secret menu — at least not that I know of — but it does satisfy the craving for indulgentl­y topped smash burgers and fried chicken sandwiches.

388 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617299-2990, www.upanddownb­os.com

 ?? PHOTOS BY ERIN CLARK/GLOBE STAFF ?? Above: The Savage Style Burger at Up & Down, two smashed beef patties, two slices of American cheese, caramelize­d onions, raw onions, pickles, and phuct sauce on a roll, served with phuct fries. Left: The
Taki Clucker.
PHOTOS BY ERIN CLARK/GLOBE STAFF Above: The Savage Style Burger at Up & Down, two smashed beef patties, two slices of American cheese, caramelize­d onions, raw onions, pickles, and phuct sauce on a roll, served with phuct fries. Left: The Taki Clucker.
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