Beach culture is on the menu at Brookline’s new bartaco location
Where to bartaco in Washington Square, Brookline.
Why We were curious to see who would settle into the old Fireplace spot, considering how much restaurant competition there is in that corner of Brookline. The Fireplace closed in 2017 after 16 years; the space was briefly home to Porto Maltese.
The back story As it turns out, bartaco at one end of the Beacon Street block, is owned by the same private equity firm as Barcelona Wine Bar at the other end. The bartaco storefront, on a corner with windows on two sides, has a nautical motif, lots of white and blue, servers in blue-checked shirts and white jeans. The chain — which prefers to call itself a “group,” though this is the 28th national location, with another in the Seaport — was started over a dozen years ago as a casual restaurant meant to feel like a beach house, says president Anthony Valletta. Each location has a slightly different decor, he says, so they’re not carbon copies of each other.
What to eat Lots of tacos, of course, which come in corn tortillas. The menu is almost entirely gluten-free (desserts are the exception). Roasted duck taco is especially nice, as is cauliflower. Among the offerings in the “not tacos” category are items for sharing: guac, lobster salad (a tip of the hat to New England), kale Caesar, and plump plantains. Key Lime Pie comes in a jar, which is cute, but on a menu intended for sharing, it’s not ideal. Who wants to keep dipping a spoon back into a community jar in today’s world? This is street food gone corporate, which is to say, very fresh and nicely prepared but nothing like the taco truck on a back street somewhere in California.
What to drink Tequila and mezcal, craft brews, sangria, wine, cocktails. Margaritas are made with fruit that is juiced to order.
The takeaway Servers are well trained, good with Dad jokes, and efficient. There are no reservations, but you can go online or call as you’re leaving home to be put on a waitlist. The dining room and bustling bar have more than 100 seats. In the spring, there will be sidewalk tables and at the beginning of 2024, a third location in the Fenway. This is a place where three generations can be happy. The kids’ menu is more imaginative than what’s typical. If Nana has come to meet her new grandbaby, bring Nana and strap on the newborn and you’ll all be very comfortable here.
1634 Beacon St., Washington Square, Brookline, 617-546-8226, https://bartaco.com/location/brookline. Tacos $2.95-$5.95, not tacos $3.55-$14.95, rice bowls $9.25-$10.95.