Going Green
THREE DISHES WITH SPINACH, KALE, AND BROCCOLI MAKE IT EASY TO EAT YOUR VEGGIES.
Saint Patrick’s Day is a fine reminder to get more green on your plate. First, try green shakshuka, which offers a fresh twist on the classic Mediterranean egg dish, swapping the iconic spicy tomato and pepper base for a mix of leeks, spinach, and peas, while creamy feta cheese add pops of briny flavor. Or top crispy, cheesy crostini with earthy kale and creamy white beans for a rich, hearty appetizer. Lastly, frozen broccoli gives us a shortcut for a smooth, creamy, brilliant-green soup brightened by fresh cilantro.
Green Shakshuka
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Classic shakshuka is a skillet dish of eggs poached in a spicy tomato-based sauce. But according to Einat Admony and Janna Gur, authors of Shuk: From Market to Table, the Heart of Israeli Home Cooking, in Israel, where shakshuka gained a foothold after its introduction by North African immigrants, a green version made with leafy vegetables is nearly as popular. Our green shakshuka, inspired by Limor Chen’s version at Delamina East in London, includes leeks, spinach, and peas and is finished with feta. We recommend serving it with warm flatbread.
The salt massage for the spinach is a must — this pretreatment reduces the leaves’ volume so the spinach wilts faster in the skillet. That said, take care not to overwork the salted spinach or it will begin to throw off moisture even before it hits the pan. Also, don’t forget to taste and season the greens before adding the eggs. Once the eggs are in, the greens cannot be stirred.
1 pound baby spinach Kosher salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium-large leek, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, thinly sliced, rinsed, and dried
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
1½ teaspoons Aleppo pepper or 1 teaspoon hot paprika plus ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (¾ cup)
6 large eggs
In a large bowl, toss the spinach with ¾ teaspoon salt and, using your hands, massage the leaves until they begin to wilt; this should take about 1 minute. Set aside.
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, warm the oil until it shimmers. Add the leek and onion, then cook, stirring occasionally, until fully softened but not browned, 7 to 9 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the spinach and cook, tossing with tongs, until the leaves are fully wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the peas, cumin, Aleppo pepper, ¼ cup water, and two-thirds of the feta, then stir just until the feta begins to melt, about 30 seconds. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.
With the pan set over
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medium-low heat, use the back of a spoon to form 6 evenly spaced wells in the sauce, each about 2 inches wide and deep enough that the bottom of the pan is visible. Crack 1 egg into each, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny, 5 to 8 minutes, rotating the skillet about halfway through for even cooking. Off heat, sprinkle with the remaining feta.
Greens and Beans With Pecorino Crostini
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Greens and beans are great companions. In this take, hearty kale and creamy white beans are a perfect match for each other, especially when accented by the high-impact flavors of garlic, rosemary, and pepper flakes. We use the liquid from one can of beans to create a sauce that’s fullbodied, and when the kale is tender, we mash a small portion of the beans to create creaminess.
Toasty, cheesy crostini are an ideal accompaniment, but if you like, simply serve hunks of warm, crusty bread alongside.
Two 15½-ounce cans cannellini or great northern beans
Twelve ½-inch-thick baguette slices
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve
2 ounces (1 cup) pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus more to serve
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon dried rosemary or 1 sprig fresh rosemary
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 bunches lacinato or curly kale, stemmed and chopped (about 6 cups)
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 400 degrees with a rack in the upper-middle position. Drain and discard the liquid from 1 can of beans. Drain the liquid from the second can into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup, then add enough water to equal 2 cups.
Brush both sides of the baguette slices with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Place the bread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until browned and crisped on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes, flipping the slices about halfway through. Remove from the oven and sprinkle evenly with half of the cheese. Bake until the cheese is melted, about 2 minutes; set aside.
In a 12-inch skillet set over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and the garlic, rosemary, and pepper flakes, stirring occasionally, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add about half of the kale, ½ teaspoon each salt and black pepper, and half of the bean liquid; toss with tongs until the greens are wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining kale and remaining bean liquid, tossing until the greens are wilted. Stir in the beans and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; cover, reduce to mediumlow, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the kale is tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
Off heat, remove and discard the rosemary sprig (if used). Using a fork, mash some of the beans for a little creaminess. Stir in the remaining cheese, then taste and season with salt and black pepper. Serve drizzled with additional oil and sprinkled with additional cheese; offer the crostini on the side.
Curried Broccoli and Cilantro Soup
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Frozen broccoli makes it immensely easy to throw together this smooth, creamy, no-cream soup.
The broccoli doesn’t even require thawing before use, and cooking is brief so it retains its bright color. An immersion blender, if you own one, makes the recipe even simpler, as it can puree the soup directly in the pot. Either frozen broccoli florets or “cuts” (a mix of florets and stalks) will work in this recipe.
2 tablespoons salted butter
1 large yellow onion, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
1 jalapeño chili, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1 bunch cilantro, stems chopped, leaves roughly chopped, reserved separately Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 quart low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth
Two 10-ounce bags frozen broccoli, unthawed (see headnote) Plain yogurt, optional, to serve
In a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion, ginger, half the jalapeño, the cilantro stems, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the curry powder and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the broth and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Add the broccoli and return to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and cool for about 5 minutes. Stir in about half of the cilantro leaves.
Using a blender and working in 2 or 3 batches to avoid overfilling the jar, puree the broccoli mixture until smooth. Return the soup to the pot and warm over medium heat, stirring, until hot. Taste and season with salt and pepper. To serve, add a dollop of plain yogurt
(if using), and sprinkle with the remaining jalapeño and the remaining cilantro leaves.