March Munchies
GAME PLAN FOR THE BIG DANCE WITH CHICKEN WINGS THREE WAYS.
No March Madness spread is complete without wings, and we’ve got three ways to sate your cravings. First, a Mediterranean twist on the classic Buffalo wing relies on harissa paste for a fiery kick, with za’atar for herbal, smoky depth. Drawing inspiration from Vietnamese cuisine, our garlicky lemon grass wings get a bold, sweet-salty glaze made with umami-rich fish sauce, lime juice, and aromatic lemon grass. And for deliciously crispy wings without the mess of traditional deepfrying, our oven-fried version is a winner. Coated in a tangy Thai chili sauce, these wings offer both a satisfying crunch and a pleasant sweet heat.
Harissa Hot Wings
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
This riff on Buffalo wings features international flavor inspiration. Za’atar is a Middle Eastern herb, spice, and seed blend; we use it to season both the wings and the sauce. The base for the sauce is North African harissa paste, a fiery, fragrant mix of red chilies and spices.
If you purchase whole chicken wings, you will need to separate them into drumettes and flats (also called wingettes) and also
remove and discard the wing tips; purchase a total of 3 pounds to account for the weight lost with wing tip removal.
Brining the wings for 30 minutes to 1 hour is essential. This step helps keep the meat moist and flavorful; without it, the wings turn out dry and tough.
2½ pounds chicken drumettes, flats (wingettes), or a combination, patted dry (see headnote)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon za’atar, divided
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
3 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil
6 tablespoons salted butter
½ to ¾ cup harissa paste, to taste
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon white sugar
Thinly sliced scallions or chopped fresh cilantro, to serve
In a large bowl, combine the chicken wings, ¼ cup za’atar, 3 tablespoons water, and 1 tablespoon salt, then stir until evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 450 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and mist the rack with cooking spray.
In another large bowl, whisk together the flour, garlic, ½ tablespoon salt, and 1 tablespoon pepper. Working in 3 batches, transfer the wings to the flour mixture and toss until well coated, pressing so that the flour mixture adheres. Transfer the wings to the prepared rack, shaking off excess flour and arranging them in an even layer with the thick-skinned sides facing up. Bake for 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and brush the tops of the wings with the oil. Continue to bake until golden, about another 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool for about 5 minutes.
While the wings cool, in a small saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the 1 tablespoon za’atar and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the harissa and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Off heat, whisk in the vinegar and sugar, then taste and season with salt.
Transfer the wings to a large bowl. Add AE cup of the sauce and toss to coat. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with scallions. Serve the remaining sauce on the side.
Garlic-Lemon Grass Chicken Wings
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
These crisp, salty-sweet chicken wings were inspired
by the ones we tasted at Coupi Bar, a Vietnameseinspired café in Paris. A dusting of potato starch gives them a thin, crackly exterior, which stays crisp even after the wings have been sauced. High-impact ingredients, including fragrant lemon grass and zingy chilies, bring big, bold flavor, while fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar contribute sweet, tart, and salty notes. After the wings are fried, the sauce is made separately, reduced in a skillet to a sticky glaze for coating the chicken.
The recipe works with drumettes, flats (wingettes), or a combination. If you purchase whole wings, you will need to cut between the joints to separate the parts. Since the wing tips are not used in this recipe (if desired, they can be saved for making chicken broth), you may wish to opt for 2¼ pounds of wings, or even a little more.
Take care to simmer the sauce for no more than a couple of minutes, otherwise it may become too thick to evenly glaze the wings. Reduce just until the mixture is syrupy with large bubbles forming across its surface; this will yield enough to evenly coat the wings while ensuring they stay crispy.
¼ cup white sugar
¼ cup fish sauce
¼ cup lime juice, plus lime wedges, to serve
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1⁄3 cup potato starch
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 quarts plus 1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil, divided
2 to 2¼ pounds chicken drumettes, flats (wingettes), or a combination, patted dry (see headnote)
6 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 stalks fresh lemon grass, trimmed to the bottom 6 inches, dry outer layers discarded, minced
2 medium shallots, minced
2 Fresno or serrano chilies, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
¼ cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, fish sauce, lime juice, and ¼ teaspoon pepper until the sugar dissolves; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the potato starch, turmeric, and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper; set aside. Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet.
Add 2 quarts oil to a large Dutch oven; it should reach a depth of about 1AE inches. Heat over mediumhigh, to 350 degrees. Meanwhile, add the chicken wings to the potato starch mixture and toss to coat, pressing so that the starch adheres.
When the oil has reached temperature, carefully add one or two wings at a time, shaking off the excess starch, until about half are in the pot. Cook, stirring and turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 10 to 13 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the wings as they are done to the prepared rack. Cook the remaining wings in the same way; set aside.
In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until it shimmers. Add the garlic, lemon grass, shallots, and chilies; cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fish sauce mixture, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring, until lightly syrupy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wings and cook, tossing to coat, until glazed and the skillet is dry, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, toss in the cilantro, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve with lime wedges on the side.
Oven-Fried Sweet Chili Chicken Wings
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
These simple chicken wings are fried in the oven, avoiding the hassle and mess of deep-frying on the stove top. Lightly coating the wings with oil, then tossing them with cornstarch before cooking, helps produce crispness without greasiness.
Thai sweet chili sauce, sold in bottles, is sweet and spicy, as its name suggests, but it’s also tangy and garlicky. We use it as a sauce base for tossing the wings after cooking. The chili heat varies by brand, so if you’re seeking a bolder blast than what yours offers, stir some red pepper flakes or cayenne into the sauce.
Make sure to toss the wings with the sauce while they’re still hot. This ensures that they readily absorb the flavorings without losing their crispness.
1½ pounds chicken drumettes, flats (wingettes), or a combination, patted dry
2 teaspoons soy sauce, divided
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons cornstarch Ground black pepper
¼ cup Thai sweet chili sauce (see headnote)
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
Thinly sliced scallions, to serve
Toasted sesame seeds, to serve
Heat the oven to 450 degrees with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and mist it with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, toss the chicken with 1 teaspoon soy sauce and the oil until well coated. Sprinkle the cornstarch and ae teaspoon pepper over the wings; using a silicone spatula, toss until evenly coated.
Distribute the wings, with the thicker-skin side facing up, in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until browned and crisped, about 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, wash and dry the bowl, then in it, stir together the sweet chili sauce, vinegar, the remaining 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and ae teaspoon pepper. When the wings are done, use tongs to immediately transfer them to the bowl. Toss until well coated and the wings have absorbed all of the sauce mixture. Transfer to a platter, then sprinkle with scallions and sesame seeds. Serve warm.